SAGQ7070KS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

You must disconnect appliance from the gas, water and vent to access the back. Remove the top of the dryer which then allows you to remove the rear panel by removing all screws, You may also have to remove 2 electrical connections to get this panel off. Now you have access to the air duct. To remove the air duct there are 3 screws inside the dryer and 2 screws on the lower part of the air duct. One of the lower screws is facing toward the inside of the dryer and you will need a 12"+ screwdriver to be able to remove. Once you do all that install the new part and repeat steps in reverse.

Just remove and replaced no tools required

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

popped in one in

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

Once we got the dryer out of the cramped where we could work on it, the project went a little quicker. I'd recommend using paper plates/bowls, that you label, to hold all the screws for each piece you remove off the back. It doesn't seem like it will be a lot, but we had at least 20-30 screws in 4-5 different sizes. Unlike someone else's install, we had to completely pull the white back panel off, as well as the main back cover, due to one screw holding the air duct from the inside of the dryer compartment (meaning we couldn't reach everything from the back). Getting this screw out was a challenge and seemed like a huge design flaw, but if you can't get to that screw, the old air duct isn't coming out. There are 2 other screws holding the air duct but they're easy to reach once the back panel is off.
Once that was taken out the process was straightforward, we just took our time reattaching everything step-by-step. Now our dryer works like new.

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

I recently ordered parts for a gas dryer, Frigidaire GLGQ2152 ES3. When I received an igniter part number PS12585650 order number 14700077, the igniter was broken when I opened the box. I believe what happened is that the new metal bracket was wrapped in the bubble wrap along with the igniter. I called customer service and was setup to return the igniter which I did. Also, I ordered a second igniter. I receive the second one and it wasn't broken and the bracket was outside the bubble wrap during shipment.

As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.

The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.

After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.

Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

First i replaced the drum bushing on the rear of the drum ,it was definitely bad but noise was still there
Decided it was the blower assy , pulled the dryer out disconnected the power,took off the frt panel with the door, disconnected the wiring to motor remover motor and fan assy, most trouble i had was fan is on motor with reverse threads messed with removing fan until I figured out it was backwards after that removed old fan and housing installed new one ,put dryer back together,started it and only normal noises
Good for another 5 years
Chuck