TEA800 (P75752-5W) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.

I totally disassembled the Dryer, and replaced the Guide Rollers, Blower Wheel, Idler Pulley Shaft, Idler Pulley, and Belt.

Was extrememly simple. Just unscrewed the two screws at the bottom front of the dryer and pulled the front of the drayer out. PUshed the broken catch out and snapped the new catch in place. Reattached the dryer front with the two screws and was done. Less than 15 minutes.

used needle nosed pliers, squeezed the latch pop up push new one in. very simple anyone can do it

Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.

The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.

The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.

Remove the front,2 screws. Replace switch. Only problem was holding front in position and starting screws at same time. Two person to finish.

Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely

Installed the new part. Worked great!

I only had to replace the inside one
I pulled the old one out .
And snapped the other one in

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.