DLE330RC-PDLE330RC Amana Dryer - Instructions

Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill

First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.

As it turned out, the felt was only part of the problem. The guide bracket had been cut thru by the drum. This all started when a golf tee got stuck in the drum area. It took very little time to destroy the guide bracket. Dryer was built by Whirlpool. Parts are built to the bare minimum. These appliances are designed to break in a couple of years. There is no doubt about it. I installed the new guide brkt, glued the new felt on and put it all back together. The job is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined.

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

I disconnected power and vent hose then tipped dryer on its back. I took off lower panel and door ,disconnecting wires to door and light and hanging them over the side,i then removed the front plate and felt seal the plastic fan shroud and lint trap come out as one piece along with the front plate.when i could look down on the drum,standing on the left side ,i disconnected the screw connecting the top plate to the left side plate allowing the top to gain a little play,this is the amount needed for the drum to be removed,pull belt tensioner slightly as to release tension remove the belt from motor shaft.At this point remove drum and set aside,the lower felt ring and support rollers will be exposed as well as tension spring and tension roller,i used a mirror and guided the snap ring pliers into place on the tension roller,At this point pull on rear felt ring it may come loose easy ,if not work some adhesive remover into the cracks where the glue is and keep agitating it ,eventually the glue will begin to release and more and more of the remover can get in washing the felt ring off,clean real good after using remover soap and water and allow to dry ,apply a thin ring of high heat adhesive smooth out to spread even all around when it becomes tacky begin applying new felt ring,while this adhesive cures perform the same procedure on the front panel and its felt ring while these rings are drying into place undo snap rings and pull support rollers out and replace in like order replacing thrust washers and snap rings if you damage them ,the roller on the tensioner is more tricky but if you use a mirror and a light it is easy to sneak in there lastly when preparing to reassemble and drum and belt are in place just before you replace the front panel it is prudent to replace the neoprene slides,reassemble front plate and ensure that the felt ring lines up and goes in evenly all the way around re-attach top left corner ,reinstall door and wires as well as bottom plate this will conclude the procedure i learned all of this the hard way i should have just replaced all the parts at once i was in that machine 6 different times Daniel 2017

very easy after the learning curve. I ordered this thermal fuse on Friday morning and got it Monday by 11:00 am. I love this kind of service. I will use this company again.

The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

After finding the culprit was the vent duct no longer connected to the internal drum duct, and cleaning the whole inside of the cabinet out. Must be a dryer made on friday or monday as no clip or screw to keep the two pieces together. Caused it to vent inside the unit. Pulled the bottom off, key is to remove the tension clips that hold the front panel on and then pull it off as there were additional tension clips holding it together. Unscrew the two screws with a nut driver that hold the thermal Fuse part. Change out one wire at a time to keep them aligned properly. Screw it back on, reattach bottom and start it up.

My husband pulled drum out of dryer and replaced the idler pulley wheel and decided to replace the belt while he was in there. It's good to have a snap ring tool as it's a pain to replace the snap ring without this tool. Goes alot quicker!

Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely

remove front part of the dryer and rise up the top to remove drum to replace the belt. than remove two screws for the heating element piece of cake repair.

I first replaced the blower fan, then noticed excessive heat. That was the reason the blower fan came apart. Watched some videos on the symptoms and ordered said thermostat. I removed lower front access panel, thermostat is on exhaust side of blower fan housing, removed 2 screws transferred the 3 wires installed new thermostat and done.

disassembled the entire dryer drum and front bulkhead plate. Installed belt and replaced drum on rollers and positioned idler pulley .Video was very helpful in positioning drum and belt onto idler pulley. More trouble with the existing dryer vent replacement after repairs were complete

Follow the instructions on this webside