AED4370TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

Used the trouble shooting tips provided as a guide and a multimeter to test and find the defective part. Testing indicated no continuity thru the high limit thermostat. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days. Had the repair done a full week before the repairman could even come to the house and saved well over $100 in repair costs and 2 weeks or longer of down time. Great website and service.

First unplug unit to avoid shock. Using a flap blade screwdriver lift the front corners of the top. Unplug the switch located on the right side in the front. Remove two screws holding the switch in place. Remove old switch and reverse to install new switch. Entire project took less than 10 minutes. Oh yes the wife was so happy she made me a dish of fudge brownies. :)

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......

Pulled back off dryer as in video and followed directions. One part in the kit was not necessary. Just replaced the fuse and put it all together again and Voila! Dryer works again.

i took the face off dryer and removed the belt and drum then removed the lint trap from back to clean and have access fan then removed the retaing clips holding the motor then with two adjustable wenches unscewed the motor from fan took out motor and replaced in reverse order all you needed was some common sence to do this i though it was easy to do greats parts fit perfect thanks tommy

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

Hi, I am a working mom, and my dryer quit just after it had been behaving strangely. At first, it kept spinning after the door was opened. It eventually stopped working, and I assumed that the door switch must be the culprit. I purchased the part from the catalogue, and watched the installation video. Repair: After unplugging the dryer and removing the lint screen, I used a philips head screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws located at the lint trap. I then inserted a flat screwdriver into the area between the top of the dryer casing and the face. Per the video, at approx. 2 inches in from the left and right side. I did this while gently applying pressure from the back of the dryer top to the front. This loosens the clips allowing the top to be lifted back and out of the way. I then opened the dryer door and commenced loosening and removing the two screws that hold the dryer switch in place. I used my screwdriver to gently separate the wiring harness connection, as it also has a clip to keep the connection tight. With these items free, I simply popped the little black thingy back through the hole (The black thingy just keeps the slack in the wiring from sagging, I think). With the old part removed, I then installed the new part accordingly. I reversed my way back out of the process respectively. I plugged her back in, and turned her on. Back in business.

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

Removed old screen. Placed in new screen.