DU400CWDB5 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the inner nut holding the spray arm onto the pump. Turned the washer on it's back and removed the wire clip holding rear of the pump motor. Completely removed the pump housingand motor from the washer. Removed three(3) long screws holding the motor to the pump housing. Removed the dish from the housing and removed the old impeller and seals .
Cleaned the pump housing of calcium with lime-a-way. Reinstalled all new parts in reverse order as they order taken off. Cleaned inside of dishwasher with lime-a-away and general purpose cleaner. Reinstall pump housing and motor on washer in reverse order as they were taking off.
Reinstalled washer into cabinet and connected all hoses, drain lines and electrical wired. Turned washer on and watched it run throught a complete cycle. Worked just fine and no leaks. Parts were great.

Sincerely,
James

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

My husband did the repair. He sucked the water out with the wet/dry vac. Layed it over on the front and removed the pump motor and replaced it.

Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.

Had to be careful positioning the spring without breaking the hinge pin. Requires a certain amount of patience.

i determined that the impeller was not free. ordered and installed an impeller kit which included a new bushing, which was the culprit. it was a fairly simple fix, needing only to remove the pump housing from the back of the motor. access to the impeller was by removing the screw-in, x shaped connection on the back side of the impeller housing. runs like new again. the fix was far less expensive than a new washer.

but the pin in and add the pin though the 2 tabs close door on it open it up move the springs backwards to the door

remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.

I used the screwdriver to pry the old lid off of the horizontal pin upon which it rotates. One must be careful before removing the old lid to note how the return spring is deployed. The short legs on the spring must be in the lip of the lid before you snap the new lid onto the horizontal pin. It was helpful to lubricate the two catches on the lid that snap on the pin with some liquid soap before attempting to snap them on the pin. After the lid is snapped into place and the short legs of the coil spring are in the lip of the lid, use needle nose pliers to attach the other end of the coil spring to the pillar where it was before you removed the old lid. There are videos showing how to do this on Youtube. The spring part is a little tricky. The video makes it look a bit easier than it is..

Replaced the impeller using the kit. Had to brake the impeller since it was stocked due to rust.

I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.

The pump drain hose had been eaten by a rat searching for bits of food. Hose was easy to replace. Then after the repair, we ran the dish washer through its cycles and thennoticed water leaking from under the cabinet from the sink-side. The rat had also chewed the hose connecting the pump drain hose to the sink. Fortunately our hardware store had that hose and we could access that hole from the sink side.