WDF750SAYB3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.

Float switch right in front. Did not remove dishwasher. Used small flat screwdriver to un clip cover. Very soft and easy. Unplug and it slides out.
Same with the water inlet. Did not remove and used a screwdriver and small channel locks. Turn off water. Remove hose and remove screw. Slides out. Very easy.

pushed the new retainers in the holes and we are set to go

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

pulled the dishwasher out (took the most time-1 hour) and 30 min. to install new door balance kit and springs. Replace both sides while the unit was out.

Ordered a new pump (after a online diagnosis). Followed the instruction video on the website...also took the time to replace the discharge hose due to residue buildup...tested dishwasher (one cycle). Slide dishwasher back into opening....DONE. Works perfectly. THANKS

Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.

I ordered part # PS11745459 - Upper Dishrack Wheel Mount. The hardest part for me at first was to remove the Rack Trap Stop. My husband was able to remove it with a screwdriver and also put it back on by hand after. He said I didn't pull it hard enough. Well once that was done, I slid off the wheel that had broke off the part I bought as replacement. The second hardest part for us both was to wedge in the piece. You have to put it in from the bottom up without the wheel slid in yet and position the two notch grooves sideways to the basket and twist in. A little tricky but easy once it's done. Part also arrived quickly.

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

leveled dishwasher, it was leaning forward, raised front 1/2'", to get level.
no More leaks, WOULD LIKE TO RETURN DOOR SEAL. DID NOT USE SEAL.

THANKS,
PETE GODSHALK

First, I checked the ripped box for damage to the dishrack. Fortunately, there was none. Then I looked for the instruction booklet. Unfortunately, there was none. And the parts bag was ripped and I did not know what was supposed to be in it. So, I rechecked the photo of the dishrack on the website and found that either parts were missing or the dishrack was different than illistrated. After a few moments of thought, I realized the latter was the case. I then figured I would have to use some deep thought to do the installation since neither the missing instruction booklet nor the unzoomable photo would help. So, I pulled out the tall thin thingamabob from the old dishrack and put it in the new one though it did not secure as tightly. Then I put the wheel units on just like the old one. What I could not immediately figure out was where the collapsible rack row was mounted. I eventually realized that the rod went into a hole in the wheel units and the latch mounted above one unit. I still have no idea where the two other tan clips go. Though the dishrack is different and thus requires different science to fill it, it appears to do the job.

Thanks for asking.

By the way, it was not blue.

I followed the wonderful videos provided with the part and fixed the problem easily! I suggest making a separate instructional video on how to get the dishwasher out of the housing.

Due to the way I installed the appliance originally it was not necessary to disconnect supply water nor the drain connections. When the cord broke the spring came out of the point of connection to the appliance. It some "finagelling" to reattach the spring.After some "select vocabulary" it hooked into the correct spot and the rest was history.

Have all the tools at your disposal. Remove top rack after removing the track stop. Remove 2 screws that hold unit in to cabinet. They are under the little caps. That is when you need the magnet for the screwdriver. Wiggle tub out of space and remove hex head screws that hold the wheel mount. Save the gasket for install. Put things back the way they came off. Changing the upper dishrack requires some twisting and gentle pressure. Even if one is broken, replace all 4. Put back the screws to the cabinet and the end caps.

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.