WDF520PADW5 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed very simple instructions to easily install. The only tool needed was a flathead scredriver to pop off caps to remove old, broken rollers. New rollers simply click into place. Piease aren't cheap, but significantly less than a new dishwasher.

Pulled out old gasket, pressed in new starting middle top. No more leak.

I used a flat blade screwdriver to compress one arm of the endcap of the slide rail to free it. I then slid up the locking slide of the old roller assembly freeing it from the upper basket,and put the new part in its place. I then put the roller back in the slide rail and replaced the endcap.

TOOK OFF RACK ROLLERS ON OLD TOP RACK AND BOTTOM RACKS ALONG WITH TOP WASH SPRAYER AND PARTS AND PUT ON NEW BASKETS.
PIECE OF CAKE!

The new lower rack came with wheels, but there were some other plastic parts I needed to move from the old rack to the new. No tools necessary! Use the old rack as a reference to make sure you put the wheels on the correct sides.

My dishwasher wasn't completing cycles and would start to smell like burning plastic randomly. I determined it wasn't coming from inside the tub but underneath the unit. I replaced the drain pump and the drain hose as a precaution to make sure the check valve inside wasn't getting stuck closed forcing the pump to not be able to drain. It was a very easy repair that just involved taking the dishwasher out of the cabinet and turning it on its side. The old pump just twists out and the new one goes in just as easy no tools required. The video instructions on the product page here were very helpful. The hose connects with a clamp and is routed on the side with some plastic clips. It was very easy and completely solved the problem!

It was a matter of sliding the back of the basket on to the attached knobs on the dishwasher door.

Unscrew top filter, pry off bottom filter, replace with two new filters

I just snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on..

Slid the holder into the protrusions on the dishwasher door.

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

I watched the videos and did the repair , very simple, replaced main motor and dispenser. just have to take your time, turn off water and power and work safely

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

Had to repurchase the correct one. I was also sent a used part that I am still waiting for a call tag to send back. I was also given an email address for customer service but low and behold it also didn’t work!!!!