WDF330PAHS0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the upper dishrack easily by removing the end clips and sliding the tray out. Removal of the revolving sprayer was easy as it just clipped on to the bottom of the rack. The rack was not the rack that was ordered and I was informed that this was the correct rack for the dishwasher even though the description and picture was different that what I received. There were no instructions with the rack to explain how to attach the "flaps" that can go over lightweight dishes to keep them from flipping. Every way I tried to attach the flaps did not work. When I was able to attach one it would pop off if I raised the flap to place a dish underneath it. I finally gave up on the flaps and reinserted the rack onto the rails and put the end clips back in place. The rack works fine other than it is not the one that was described and was not the rack that I wanted.

this job is cake. worst part is removing dishwasher from cabinet. Disconnect water , drain , and power. reove mounting screws in upper door area. Pull unit out and lay it on its face. unplug two wire leads and remove big nuts. Roll unit upright and replace heater. roll unit back over and tighten nuts and plug leads back in. It really takes two minutes to replace heater once the unit is out of cabinet.

Disconnected power,water supply and drain.Had to pull dishwasher out to access the heater element nuts. Removed broken element and replaced with new part. Repair very easy!

Turned water off. Removed dishwasher from under the counter, replaced hose, reinstalled dishwasher under the counter.

The dishwasher is 25 years old. Ordering the part was simple. Very good web site and user friendly. The shipment and delivery perfect. Part arrived as predicted. Tracking delivery was also perfect. Part was exactly what I needed. The only hitch was that there were no instructions for assembly, not even a drawing of the assembly to give a hint as how to assemble. Therefiore assembly took longer than it should have. However the diswasher is back in operation and I am pleased with the results.

Unscrewed bottom panel of the dishwasher and simply replaced the bad control switch with the new one.

I pulled the dishwasher out from the countertop rolled it to the side removed old clamps and hose installed new hose in kind used different hose clamps than provided turned up right pushed back in ran a cycle while looking underneath with a flashlight and saw no leaks and dishwasher has been back in use for a week now.Chris

Very simple repair when you're supplied with the proper parts. Their delivery time is exceptional !

Replaced heating element and high limit thermostat. Was suppose to fix the problem but did not. Replaced the control board and works now. All of these are easy to replace.

I loooked up the main problems associated with that model which is provided on the website and ended up ordering a heating element and a thermostat. I replaced both parts it took me about 30 minutes. The dishwasher is working again and my wife is very happy. Thanks guys!!!

no instructions came unfortunately, but it wasn't too difficult reverse engineering. took the upper rack out, disassembled it and put the new rack together using the old screws (since there were no screws either with the replacement rack). There are some extra parts I don't know quite what to do with - some type of additional separators, but the rack works fine without them.

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.