WDF330PAHS0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

put new one in

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.

Turned off water to dishwasher and disconnected hot water and drain hoses. Removed to side screws and kick panel and pulled dishwasher from under counter. Removed old drain hose and fed the new one over to the drain. Reconnected the hot water and new drain hose. Pushed dishwasher under cabinet and screwed to cabinets. Ran the dishwasher and checked for leaks. Replaced kick panel.

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

I had to pull the appliance out from under the cupboard, remove the bottom dish rack, go to the back of the dishwasher and remove the two plastic nuts and the two wires from the heater, then remove the heating element from the inside of the appliance and reverse the order. The dishwasher works fine now.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

My dish washer is a under the counter type.On mine there are two screws that screw into the bottom of the counter frame,these are located inside when you open up the door, they will be right on the inside and to the very front of the upper part of the door opening. Remove both screws. Now,be slow and start to pull the unit out from under the counter. Make sure you don't scrastch your floor,you may use a towel.If your dish washer's discharge hose is conected under the sink, go ahead and remove it. If your unit can be unpluged, unplug it. If not throw the breaker.Try to turn your unit on' if it does you still have power still on. Try again.With the unit pulled out so you can see the back, lay on your side and look for to long looking plastic nuts with a wire coming out of them. These nuts are holding your eleament in place.Unscrew both nuts and let them slide down the wires. Pull both of the wires off the eleament.now reach inside and remove the old eleament.Put new eleamen in place, reconect wires and tighten the nuts,caustion not to tighten nuts to tight.Ok hook the hose and eleectric back up,push the unit under the cabanet, and install the two screws.Really hopes this helps.

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Googled the problem. Found a really good video about how to fix it. Ordered the part from PartSelect and it came in a couple of days. Son and I fixed it and had it up and going in a little more than an hour. The biggest problem was getting it disconnected from the water, drain and power and then hooking it back up. Old fat guys don't do well lying on the floor with their head under the sink - was why I needed son. Works now just like brand new. I highly recommend PartSelect! Don't know what it would have costs to get a repairman to do it but figured our labor saved us a couple hundred $. Yea!

Disconnected the power. Removed the dishwasher mount screws from under the counter. Slid the Dishwasher out. Removed the two wires. Loosened and removed the two heater support nuts. Removed the heater element from inside the dishwasher. Placed the new heater element inside. Tightened the nuts. Attached the wires. Pushed the dishwasher back in place. Replaced the under-counter support screws. Reset the diagnostics message on the dishwasher front panel (This may not be necessary for some) - (Press HI TEMP > AIR DRY > HI TEMP > AIR DRY). All works great. Thank you PartSelect.com for fast shipping and great pricing.