GU1500XTKB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I pulled off the old clips and easily replaced them with the new clips and popped on the wheels.
I replaced 8 clips and 8 wheels in less than 15mins

Bent the plastic housing down holding the spinner. Slipped the top of clip in slot on top of housing. Attached spinner and bottom of clip by holding top clip and pushing bottom of clip in place. No tools were needed.

I followed the PartSelect video to replace the feed tube assembly with spinner and the spray arm seal for the middle wash arm. Washing performance was better, but a couple weeks later the dishes on the bottom rack suddenly stopped getting clean. I decided I probably needed a new chopper assembly, which is identified by PartSelect as the cause of problem for 48% of the cases of dishes not getting clean. Before ordering the chopper assembly, however, I followed the video about how to replace the chopper assembly to determine whether the chopper assembly seemed to be worn out (the video shown at https://www.partselect.com/PS11722146-Whirlpool-W10083957V-Chopper-Assembly.htm). It was worse than I anticipated. I found the holes of the chopper assembly screen blocked by food, and the spinner in front of the screen had broken apart. In addition to finding the pieces of the broken chopper assembly, I discovered a treasure chest of debris, including about 8 pieces of broken glassware, 3 twister ties, a half-inch button, a 3/4-inch screw, and dozens of small pieces of metal. I poured water into the area and used a kitchen baster to suck out the water with all the pieces of debris, finishing the clean-up with paper towels. I ordered a new chopper assembly to replace the broken one, and the part arrived in under 48 hours. I relied on the same video to install the new chopper assembly. The only tricky challenge was getting the new chopper assembly back into place. I first tried needle nose pliers in two sizes, as recommended in the video, but what worked much better for me was using two chop sticks that were each about 1/4 inch square from top to bottom. Needle nose pliers are slanted, but the chopsticks did not vary in thickness and separated the screen from the spinner an even distance apart, making it easier to get the gear shaft on the chopper assembly to align in a straight line with the gear shaft on the pump motor. I also rotated the two gear shafts so the gears of the chopper assembly would mesh correctly with the gears of the pump motor shaft. The video cannot show that step very well because the man's hand blocks vision of how exactly to fit the chopper assembly into place. The video also fails to warn about possible debris around the chopper assembly and to explain how to clean out the debris. After finishing installing the chopper assembly my 14-year-old dishwasher cleaned my dishes as well as a new dishwasher. I spent a total of $110.24 on parts and shipping and invested a couple of hours total. The alternative would have been to spend $800 on a new dishwasher or wash dishes by hand. I am very, very happy with the outcome.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Removed first part of the broken part from the top rack of the dishwasher from below.

Removed the screw from the bottom of the sprayer arm to release the second half of the broken part.

Threaded new part in sprayer arm and replaced screw.

Attached part to top rack of dishwasher from below. This part was difficult. (The part appeared to be a little larger than the original.) It was a two person job, one person pushing down on the rack and the second pushing upwardand inward on the part it click to click it into place. Dishwasher now works great.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

There were no instructions with the part, but looking at the old rack it was simple to see how the parts should be assembled. Took the center part from the old rack, twisted off, and applied it to the center of the new rack. Snapped on the wheels and was done. Very simple assembly.

Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

1) Remove the racks

2) Unattach the feed tube the runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub along the back to the top (this is the grey plastic tube that the top rack sprayer plugs into). This is done by unclipping the tube in two places, one stainless clip is in the back of the tub and one stainless clip is on the top of the tub.

3) After the tube is loosened from the clips, give the tube a 45° twist clockwise (relative to the bottom of the tub) and then pull up. This should remove the entire feed tube and bottom sprayer assembly.

4) There are now 4 stainless steel torx screws visible on the bottom of the tube. Remove the screws using a torx driver. Remove the grey plastic "gear looking" piece that was held in by the screws by pulling straight up.

5) On the left hand side of the tub you will see one more (smaller) torx screw. Remove this screw and then with a pair of plyers, give the housing piece that was held on with the screw a tug straight upwards. There is a post sticking straight up that will help you do this.

6) The grinder assembly is now visible, and in my case, completely jammed with paper. Pull the grinder and screen out of the groove it is sitting in.

7) Place the new grinding and screen into the groove. The grinder blade will have to be pull back (toward you) so the grinder coupling teeth can properly engage with the motor coupling teeth. This may take some fiddling.

8) once the grinder is installed, reverse all the steps starting at step 5.

.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.