DU400CWDB2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

Turned off electricity. Removed the interior door cover. Removed door switch. Replaced switches & reversed process. By the way - I am a woman & diagnosised, ordered part & fixed it myself - I have no experience in this field. THANKS for all your information on your site.

My husband did the repair. He sucked the water out with the wet/dry vac. Layed it over on the front and removed the pump motor and replaced it.

i determined that the impeller was not free. ordered and installed an impeller kit which included a new bushing, which was the culprit. it was a fairly simple fix, needing only to remove the pump housing from the back of the motor. access to the impeller was by removing the screw-in, x shaped connection on the back side of the impeller housing. runs like new again. the fix was far less expensive than a new washer.

Had to be careful positioning the spring without breaking the hinge pin. Requires a certain amount of patience.

but the pin in and add the pin though the 2 tabs close door on it open it up move the springs backwards to the door

I used the screwdriver to pry the old lid off of the horizontal pin upon which it rotates. One must be careful before removing the old lid to note how the return spring is deployed. The short legs on the spring must be in the lip of the lid before you snap the new lid onto the horizontal pin. It was helpful to lubricate the two catches on the lid that snap on the pin with some liquid soap before attempting to snap them on the pin. After the lid is snapped into place and the short legs of the coil spring are in the lip of the lid, use needle nose pliers to attach the other end of the coil spring to the pillar where it was before you removed the old lid. There are videos showing how to do this on Youtube. The spring part is a little tricky. The video makes it look a bit easier than it is..

Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.

Replaced the impeller using the kit. Had to brake the impeller since it was stocked due to rust.

turn off power to unit
open the front to remove washer arm and nut
turn unit on its front
looseing the pump assembly from connections
and motor
replaced parts reversed order of assembly
done
cost was much cheaper than other places
one place wanted $160.00 another
place wanted $130.00
with your parts i fixed it for $61.00 that included two day shipping
thanks i will shop here again

Got the new door and tried to put it on. The door went on very easily. However, there's a spring that opens the door when the main wash cycle comes around. I never did get that spring right. None of the drawings showed the correct position and after an hour of trying to get it to work right, I gave up. The door comes open slightly (but not because of the spring) when it's time, and the liquid soap runs out due to gravity. But I wouldn't try to use soap powder because the door doesn't come open far enough.

after removeing the mounting and trim screws,water lines and associated wiring, the unit slide easily from under the counter then the fun began.
After several years of being exposed to the terrible water here the parts had become covered in lyme scale.
to make a long story short, most of the parts came out with minor difficulty however the pump motor shaft had corroded and lodged into the pump impellar.
This made removal of the pump motor impossible with out cutting off the end of the impellar and driving the pump motor shaft out.
This is NOT something you want to do.
It seems the engineer who designed the pump motor had it's casing made of plastic.
Driving the pump motor shaft out of the impellar caused the back of the motor houseing to break thus rendering the pump motor useless.
Lesson: If it becomes necessary to cut off the impellar of in the pump housing you must completely split the impellar in two parts.
This I repeat is NOT something you want to do.
I recommend replaceing both motor and pump assembly as a unit.