GU2200XTSQ3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

Took stop off end of track by smooshing spreader things together with butter knife, so they would fit through holes.
Maneuvered wheel on track and clip on rack. Put the stop back on.

Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

As I pulled out the old rubber gasket I noticed there was a flat side and a curved side, this is how the new one must go. When I put in the new gasket in I just made sure the flat side (faced out) and it really was very simple. It just fits inside a grove, very easy to install. I compared the to parts (old and new) they were exactly the same shape and length.
I was very impressed with the web site navigation and layout. I was able to zoom in on pictures of the part and there were exact measurements of dimensions.

This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and the inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection.
Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly.
Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet ...,moved out slightly....while door closed ...reached with long nosed pliers door spring pulled forward...and allowing white plastic part that fits through sleeve and fit new sleeve over it...pulled spring attaching white plastic part and pushed unit back to cabinet and replaced screws DONE.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.

Sears could not supply us with the replacement cap for the dishwasher. We were saved by being able to get the cap here on your web page.Your web sight is like going into the garage and finding the part you saved up for many years that you knew you would need down the road.

Several hours to diagnose problem: Removed all the plastic water distribution tubes to top rack and found no blockages. removed lower water jets, drain screens using star driver on 6 screws. still could find now blockages. decided problem had to be in pump mounted below unit so completely disconnected unit and removed from under counter. Upon removing lower plate below door I discovered a plastic pouch containing an excellent trouble shooting guide with complete dis-assembly instructions and parts breakout diagrams with P/N listings! First thing I discovered from this was that the chopper assembly was hiding under a plastic cover just under the filter screen I had already removed. The trick was to press down on the right side of the plate to get it to pop up and reveal the chopper. The whole chopper assembly slides out without tools. I found the strainer plate behind the chopper blade totally plugged as the blade had broken off the plastic drive shaft because the retaining knob on the end of the shaft had broken off. I was able to drill and tap the shaft and install a SS machine screw with washer to reassemble the chopper blade on the shaft. Not expecting this "Joe Maggee" repair to last more than a few cycles I went online with the P/N and googled PartSelect. Placed the order and chose std delivery over 2day or next day since I expected the repair to last for the week. I put everything back together and the first load came out perfect! This was Sunday afternoon. Tuesday the part arrived at my doorstep! 15 minutes and the new part was in. My "Joe Maggee" repair is now in the junk drawer awaiting the next pistachio shell that gets run through the washer.

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

To replace the soap dispenser you need to take off the front of the door, which requires removing about 12 torx screws - of 2 different lenghths (so keep track). Then the soap dispenser is held in place with 6 very small 4mm hex screws (why they used these instead of normal phillips??). Both my hex sets stopped at 5mm, so I had to go get one. Tool has to be narrow (not one that is flared) because the clearance between the screws and the unit is very tight. There is one small two-wire connector with a press-in connector that at first looked hard to pry off, but just grab it with channel-lock and it will just come off. Remember which way the wires are facing (ie. up or down). Be sure to note how the vinyl flap (that covers the back of the dispenser) attaches, then pull out the old one. Once the new one is in, the hardest part is putting the door cover back on. I'd advise having an extra set of hands. Made it much easier.