GU3200XTVQ2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Several hours to diagnose problem: Removed all the plastic water distribution tubes to top rack and found no blockages. removed lower water jets, drain screens using star driver on 6 screws. still could find now blockages. decided problem had to be in pump mounted below unit so completely disconnected unit and removed from under counter. Upon removing lower plate below door I discovered a plastic pouch containing an excellent trouble shooting guide with complete dis-assembly instructions and parts breakout diagrams with P/N listings! First thing I discovered from this was that the chopper assembly was hiding under a plastic cover just under the filter screen I had already removed. The trick was to press down on the right side of the plate to get it to pop up and reveal the chopper. The whole chopper assembly slides out without tools. I found the strainer plate behind the chopper blade totally plugged as the blade had broken off the plastic drive shaft because the retaining knob on the end of the shaft had broken off. I was able to drill and tap the shaft and install a SS machine screw with washer to reassemble the chopper blade on the shaft. Not expecting this "Joe Maggee" repair to last more than a few cycles I went online with the P/N and googled PartSelect. Placed the order and chose std delivery over 2day or next day since I expected the repair to last for the week. I put everything back together and the first load came out perfect! This was Sunday afternoon. Tuesday the part arrived at my doorstep! 15 minutes and the new part was in. My "Joe Maggee" repair is now in the junk drawer awaiting the next pistachio shell that gets run through the washer.

To replace the soap dispenser you need to take off the front of the door, which requires removing about 12 torx screws - of 2 different lenghths (so keep track). Then the soap dispenser is held in place with 6 very small 4mm hex screws (why they used these instead of normal phillips??). Both my hex sets stopped at 5mm, so I had to go get one. Tool has to be narrow (not one that is flared) because the clearance between the screws and the unit is very tight. There is one small two-wire connector with a press-in connector that at first looked hard to pry off, but just grab it with channel-lock and it will just come off. Remember which way the wires are facing (ie. up or down). Be sure to note how the vinyl flap (that covers the back of the dispenser) attaches, then pull out the old one. Once the new one is in, the hardest part is putting the door cover back on. I'd advise having an extra set of hands. Made it much easier.

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

1. Removed six screws securing outer panel to dishwasher door.
2. Removed outer panel which exposed back of dispenser.
3. Remover six screws holding dispenser.
4. Removed dispenser.
5. Installed new dispenser.
6. Replaced six screws.
7. Reattached electrical connection to dispenser relay.
8. Reinstalled outer panel with six screws.

Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

After I took apart the inside of the door, removing 12 star screws, I was able to see the inside of the automatic soap dispenser device. Since I now had the new device to look at, I was able to replace the latch pin back in the existing device and it worked!

I now have a replacement if the device actually breaks in the future and looking at the small plastic pieces, it will probably happen sooner or later.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed the Bi-Metal fuse and ordered a new one and recerved it two days after ordering. Replaced it and it worked.

Figuring out what was wrong: various reset methods didn't work. Since lights were blinking, it was not a fuse. Keypad ruined? Controller board ruined? I decided on the latter and ordered. 1. Removed Torx screws from the back of the washer door. 2. Removed several connectors from the circuit board, then the board itself. 3. Sat still and grounded myself to dissipate static electricity, then inserted the connectors on the replacement circuit board. 4. Reassembled the door and replaced the Torx screws. 5. Closed the door and started a rinse cycle. 6. Waited and waited and waited while the circuit board did a reset or self-test or whatever. 7. Finally, there were no lights, started a wash cycle. 8. VOILA! It works!

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.

I ordered this part after the sanitized light on my dishwasher was flashing. The dishes were no longer drying. To replace the part, my husband pulled out the dishwasher and unscrewed some nuts (accessing under the heater through the side openings). The entire repair took under 15 minutes, and works perfectly. I have to mention that the heater was shaped differently than the one it replaced, but was a perfect fit in the clips.