GU2200XTSB2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Take the 6 torx screws loose and pull down the face. Pop out the bi-metal fuse that is in the current board. Unhook the wires attached. Pop out the old board. Attach the wires to new board. Put the bi-metal fuse back in the board. Re-attach the face on the dishwasher. Be sure to unplug from the outlet before starting. When finished plug dishwasher back in. This fixed my problem.

Opened door and installed cap. Not much effort. But really got good service from Parts Select. Received order much faster than I had expected.

Disassembled inside bottom section of dishwasher found broken chopper part,removed and replaced with new part,only hard part was holding spring compressed when putting in new part,needed needlenose and thin screwdriver.Thank You for your great website and help

I first thought I may have a defective water feed tube that runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub aolng the back to the top. This is what the top rack sprayer plugs into to get water.

This was easily replaced by uncliping the feed tube by the two clips, one on the top of the tub and one in the back. You then give the feed tube a twist clockwise about 45 degree (relative to the bottom of the dishwasher). This will remove the feed tube and bottom sprayer.

However, this didn't fix the issue.

I then replaced the pump/motor. This is done by uninstalling the dishwasher and flipping it onto it's back so you can look at the bottom of the dishwasher. There is an electrial connector on the right side that needs to be disconnected. The motor is help on by one bolt in the back and a socket wrench with extender will be needed to get to it. Once the bolt is removed, and motor needs to be twisted about 45 degress so it feels "loose". Then you need to pull straight down and the motor will come off.

Just reverse all the steps to install the new motor.

But that didn't fix the issue either.

Come to find out, the problem I was having was the grinder screen was so gummed up with paper, the grinder broke and water was not getting through the screen. Here is how you replace the grider (which was the true fix to the problem).

- Remove the feed tube like I listed above. You DO NOT need to uninstall your dishwasher.

- Use a Torx driver to remove the three visible bolts on the bottom of the washer tub.

- Pull up on the plastic piece you just removed the screws to remove it.

- Use a smaller sized Torx driver to remove the one screw from the Grinder plate. Once you have the screw off, use a pair of pliers to pull straight up on post sticking straight up on the grinder housing.

-You can now see the grinder. Pull the screen and grinder assembly out. If it is still intact, just clean it and replace it back into its groove. If it is in pieces, it is destroyed and buy a new one.

- Reverse all the steps to put the dish washer back together.

This screen that fits into the groove was jammed up with paper and was causing my my issues. Once I placed this the macine worked great.

Each Molded one-piece plastic upper dishrack wheel mount includes a tiny plastic spring clip which hold the mount in place on the upper dish washer rack.
These clips become dry and britle over time and snap off.
Because they are molded in the wheel mount itself you have to replace the entire wheel mount assembly

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks

the parts only took a few days to arrive, and it took me about 2 minutes to install them-no tools were required. i took out the end plugs from the slider bars, slipped out the old broken wheel parts, snapped on the new ones, slid the upper rack into the slider assembly, popped the end plugs back into place and VOILA!!

aside from the expense of the parts- much better to go this route rather than hire a repair guy to do it!!

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Before starting the repair, I turned off electrical power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker.

Instructions for removing the door cover panel were included in my dishwasher installation manual. The instructions were in a section for adding a custom door panel. For my dishwasher, this only required removing six screws using a Torx (star shaped) driver, size T15. I found it possible to support the door cover by myself with a knee under one side and one hand wrapped around the opposite side, but another person would be helpful.

The electrical connector to the dispenser has a small tab to lock it in place. I gently pried the tab back a *little* and pulled out the connector.

There are six screws holding the dispenser in place. In this case, they were 5mm hex head screws. The screws hold a metal bracket in place and a vinyl flap is sandwiched between the bracket and the inner door panel. The vinyl flap has three holes, with two of the screws passing through the left and right holes, and the middle hold goes over a plastic tab on the dispenser.

After removing the bracket and vinyl flap, I found that there were two metal tabs holding the dispenser in place. These tabs are part of the door sheet metal. Gently prying them back a *little* released the dispenser (which would have fallen out if I hadn’t kept a hand on it).

I pushed the new dispenser through the opening until it clicked into place with the metal door tabs holding it. Then I put the vinyl flap in place with the middle hole over the plastic tab on top of the dispenser, and put the metal bracket over that and attached with the hex head screws.

Next, I reconnected the electrical wire to the dispenser, installed the door cover panel, turned on power at the circuit breaker, and tried a wash cycle. The new dispenser works great!

We replaced all four. You unclip the two front parts on the top drawer to pull it all the way out of the dishwasher. Unsnap the old mounts and clip the new ones on. Slide the top drawer rack back in and replace the two front clips.

This was truly an easy repair!

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

Took stop off end of track by smooshing spreader things together with butter knife, so they would fit through holes.
Maneuvered wheel on track and clip on rack. Put the stop back on.

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.