MDB8969SDM1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

removed and installed cords with screw driver

Disconnected the water hose entering and one electrical plug alone with one screw that holds the valve to the machine. Replaced the old with the new and it worked.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Very, Very easy - watched the Installation Video highlighted on web page and the entire process took less than 5 minutes!

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Removed lower kick panel and there it was on the left hand side. Removed the waterline and removed the mounting screws. Disconnected the inlet waterline into the dishwasher. Removed the bad inlet valve and replaced in reverse order.

Ordered the part. Called my son who brought over his toolkit. Played him the repair video on my iPad and he replaced both Door Balance Links. Door works great now.

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

Shut off power to dishwasher.Pulled dishwasher half way out from cabinet, careful not to disconnect waterline, drain-line, and electrical connections. Replaced roller assemblies and connected new door balance links to springs as shown in the great video featured on your website. Thank you for the great pricing, speedy service, and the install instructions. I am happy!

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.

Received the part. No instructions came with it. Luckily it was pretty simple to figure out. i removed the appliance from under the counter, saw how the part was attached on the other side and simply replaced the other side that was broken. Easy.

Disconnect top screws
Pull dishwasher out halfway
Notice how the other side is connected
Thread cord, use pliers to pull spring to connect.

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.

The hardest part was pulling the unit out. Ours required the electric to be disconnected. First turn off breaker, then disconnect electric, then remove the 2 screws in the sides that keep it in place (located on top for non-stone counter). Slide unit out. Next remove the spring and connect the loop from the link to the spring. The other end of the spring goes in the hole next to the rear leg. Pull the string so there is enough slack to loop the spring aroung both pulleys and then slide the end over the hook on the bottom of the door. Use the other side as a guide. Slide unit back, hook up electric, replace mounting screws. Turn on breaker.