WDF330PAHT3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.

Turned off water to dishwasher and disconnected hot water and drain hoses. Removed to side screws and kick panel and pulled dishwasher from under counter. Removed old drain hose and fed the new one over to the drain. Reconnected the hot water and new drain hose. Pushed dishwasher under cabinet and screwed to cabinets. Ran the dishwasher and checked for leaks. Replaced kick panel.

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

I had to pull the appliance out from under the cupboard, remove the bottom dish rack, go to the back of the dishwasher and remove the two plastic nuts and the two wires from the heater, then remove the heating element from the inside of the appliance and reverse the order. The dishwasher works fine now.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

My dish washer is a under the counter type.On mine there are two screws that screw into the bottom of the counter frame,these are located inside when you open up the door, they will be right on the inside and to the very front of the upper part of the door opening. Remove both screws. Now,be slow and start to pull the unit out from under the counter. Make sure you don't scrastch your floor,you may use a towel.If your dish washer's discharge hose is conected under the sink, go ahead and remove it. If your unit can be unpluged, unplug it. If not throw the breaker.Try to turn your unit on' if it does you still have power still on. Try again.With the unit pulled out so you can see the back, lay on your side and look for to long looking plastic nuts with a wire coming out of them. These nuts are holding your eleament in place.Unscrew both nuts and let them slide down the wires. Pull both of the wires off the eleament.now reach inside and remove the old eleament.Put new eleamen in place, reconect wires and tighten the nuts,caustion not to tighten nuts to tight.Ok hook the hose and eleectric back up,push the unit under the cabanet, and install the two screws.Really hopes this helps.

Empty dishwasher remove bottom basket. Disconnect electricity then turn off water. Remove top screws from counter. Slide unit out and gently tip forward. Remove the two wires from connectors on element. Unscrew plastic nuts from element save if reusable. Gently tilt unit back to normal position. Remove old element and install new one and attach to stainless spacers to hold element in place. Tip unit forward. Reinstall plastic nuts. Plug wires back into new element connectors. Tilt back into normal position. Turn water back on check for any leaks and repair if necessary. Turn electricity back on and then slide unit back into original position and replace under counter screws. Test out by running quick cycle wash. It should function normally. During drying cycle open door to be sure it is hot inside. If hot then it is repaired. Let it finish cycle and replace basket. Do not touch hot element as it will burn you.

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.

put new one in

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.