MDB8959SFZ4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

unplug, disconnect water, remove all screws holding the machine in the cabinet. slide out the machine to access the 4 bolts hold the rail. Have a prop to hold basket in place as you remove old rail> Plastic clips front and back, hold the basket to the rail. Be careful not to break, not include with the replacement rail. If you are not handy with tools and no insight...hire it done

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

Had to remove 2 screws fastening dishwasher to counter. Also removed bottom faceplate to expose the legs and to be able to lower them. Other sites recommended disconnecting the drain and water line but I did not have to do that, I had enough slack in the lines. I got the dishwasher about halfway out of the cabinet and then was able to remove the 4 screws holding the right track. Put the new track in and was good to go. Problem was that the left track broke and fell off a few days later. Still was an easy fix and thanks to PartSelect it was not very expensive.

Turned off water supply to the unit. Removed plastic cover at bottom front. I only had to disconnect the copper water line to slide the unit about 1/3 of the way out. I then was able to reach the wires, disconnect them and use a stubby box/open end wrench (5/8? don't remember for sure) to remove the plastic nuts. I then opened the door, removed the bottom basket and slipped the element right out. Installation of new part was reverse.

Unscrewed mounting screws, pulled dishwasher out halfway, replaced arms, 4 screws each side .....very simple 30 min tops. Parts perfect and quick delivery!

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

Used a YouTube video.
Easy as pie.

I followed the video and even though my dishwasher was slightly different from the one shown, everything worked well. I was lucky that I had enough clearance to pull the dishwasher away from the countertop far enough to make the repair, without having to remove any dishwasher wiring below. I replaced both side tracks, even though only the left side was broken.

Still not sure it is repaired. Still have water leakage around upper edge of door on control data panel. We just experienced an issue with the auto drain system, the first since door seal repair and door latch replacement???? Is the latching mechanism suppose to secure the door?
If so it isn't?
Not a great success story. A new washer may be in the cards

PartSelect intentionally shipped obsolete part that could not possibly fit a dishwasher. The part looked to be a rectangle door seal for a freezer/ref. You make it impossible to return the part. I find it interesting that you sent the correct install video and wrong part.
Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.

I will never use your company again William Dewberry

Disconnected the water hose entering and one electrical plug alone with one screw that holds the valve to the machine. Replaced the old with the new and it worked.

After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.