MDB7851AWB2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

Removed the old part (about 10 philip head screws).
Waited 1 day for the new part.
Unplugged the old part and plugged in the new part.
Job done.

* Partselect was GREAT. They had repair stories that made this job easy (told how to do it). They delivered the part very fast. They were way under priced to other parts places.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result.
Elmer

Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.

This is a simple repair once you conquer the problem of removing the wire clips from the old switches. And conquer I did. All you need are regular and needle nose pliers, and a heavy pot or pan. Start by turning the power off and then remove the screws holding the inner door. Carefully lay the inner door to one side of the outer door and place a heavy pot or pan on the outer door to hold it down. The handle assembly is held on with screws removed from the inner door, so you can now lift it out. Check that there are no small broken pieces anywhere on the door. Use a marker to mark Right and Left on each clip.Then remove each old switch from the old handle assembly by carefully bending the two small clips on each switch back to release it and wiggle it free with the wire clip still attached. The wire clip is actually a one piece plastic cover. Then, do this: grip the old switch with the regular pliers and then slide the unopened point of the needle nose pliers between the switch and the wire clip; there is plenty of room. This will put sufficient pressure on the wire clip to slide it from the switch. Do not grip the wire clip with pliers, it will break. Once off, put the wire clips on the new switches and install the handle. Reinstall the inner door and test the handle. That should do it. A leisurely 20 minute or so repair job.

Removed the interior of door to get to latch. Removed broken latch and unplugged the wire after I turned off electricity. Reinstalled the new latch and interior door and turned the electricity back on and everything worked great.

Basket Replacement very simple just remove old and set new basket in place

I assumed the broken door latch was causing the problem and not allowing the switches to make contact. Replacing the latch assembly was easy, but did not fix the problem, which must now be either the printed circuit board or the control panel. Either one is too expensive to justify spending on a machine that is several years old. In retrospect, an additional step in troubleshooting would have kept me from wasting time and money on the new door latch. I suggest that if you suspect the door latch is the problem, remove the screws holding the inside door panel, lift the switch assembly out of the door and insert it into the latch. See if you are getting 120 volts to the printed circuit board. If you are, but there is still no response from the control panel, the problem is not the door latch (even if it is broken, which they frequently are). Good luck figuring out if it is the printed circuit board or the control panel. At this point I decided to replace the machine with a basic Frigidaire model that used the old-fashioned timer switch. The last time I owned a machine like it, it lasted over 20 years!

First, unplug your dishwasher from under the sink. Remove all eleven screws from the inside door panel. Lift door panel up. Old latch should lift right up. use a pair of pliars to grab and squeeze the base of the old metal connectors to pull out. Do not pull on the wires themselves. Plug in the new connectors from the new latch assy, fit into place, replace the inside door panel/screws.

Remove all the screws around the inside panel and separated by size and location. There are two larger screws for the bottom two holes. Marked the electrical connectors for location on the latch assembly. Also marked the top of the two microswitchs for easier reattachment. Removed the microswitchs with the needle-nose pliers and attached to the new assembley. Reattached electrical connectors and the plastic panel.

Super easy fix, watched the installation video, did the repair in about 15 min. Helpful site and will gladly return in the future if needed