MDB7851AWB2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.

Super easy fix, watched the installation video, did the repair in about 15 min. Helpful site and will gladly return in the future if needed

removed inside door panel--then the wire leads--replaced broken part--reattached wire leads --reattached inside door panel--done----------------suggestion--it would be a good idea to include with the new part the screwdriver bit to fit the screws on the door panel ---many people would not have that size Good service from this site

Removed all the screws from the door panel. Removed door handle. Replaced it with new handle. Attached switches but did not turn the power off. Replaced the panel. Everything fitted well and works well.

Turned of power at the circuit breaker first. Removed the hex nuts from the inside of the door. Latch is loose know and just need to unplug the power cords from both sides. Install new latch by reattaching the two power cords to it and reassemble. Very easy and very fast shipping had part the next day with regular shipping.

1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays
2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top)
3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip
4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit
5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws
6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw)
7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws)
8. Assemble in reverse order

Turned off the power at the panel board. Took off the front panel. (The screws are torque screws, so you need that kind of driver). Removed the two electric leads. They are just connector type leads going to the switches. Pluged the leads onto the correct sides of the new latch assembly and reversed the procedure to put the panel back in place.

Removed 10 torx head screws from around perimeter of door (two of these screws hold door latch and handle). Unplug two wires from handle assembly and replace old handle with new. Reinstall 10 perimeter screws and job is complete.

Remove all the screws around the inside panel and separated by size and location. There are two larger screws for the bottom two holes. Marked the electrical connectors for location on the latch assembly. Also marked the top of the two microswitchs for easier reattachment. Removed the microswitchs with the needle-nose pliers and attached to the new assembley. Reattached electrical connectors and the plastic panel.

I removed the inside door panel, unplugged the old assembly and replaced with the new. The only caveat is that I THOUGHT the unit came WITH a new plastic handle, and it did not. It was very difficult to remove the handle from the old unit, and to install it in the new unit. The description was not adequate. I had read other blogs and they warned of the same missing handle, and I thought I had ordered correctly. The repair is fine, but the old handle is cracked, so I dont know how long it will last.

I removed the main plastic bolt with a pliers and then just used a screwgun with a star tip for all the screws.
I am a 43 year old woman with no experience and I was able to figure it out. The machine cleans much better now.

Replaced with the new basket. However, the part had been replaced, and I do not like the new setup. One basket has been replace with 2 that are hooked together. Each basket has a cover, but it covers the whole side, not just a part. In my old basket, I had a part of the basket with a cover that could hold plastic lids and measuring spoons that can easily wash out of the basket and hit the heating element on the bottom. My "fix" was to remove both lids and use the lid from the old basket to cover one part of the new basket. It's not very satisfactory, as it is not hinged and had to be removed and tucked in each time!

First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!

I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.

Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).

Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.

Screws were replaced and wa la!

Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.

I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.

Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).

Not bad for a couple of girls!

Pulled out the old one and put in the new one!

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.