MDB7851AWB2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.

1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.

Unfortunately, my experience was unlike that of the other people who posted. While everything did go back together it was very difficult to get it all to press down tightly enough to tighten each set of screws. The project took about 2.5 hrs and I still don't think it is exactly right. I'm still going to have a professional out to finish the job. Also, the tool needed to complete the job was nothing fancy, but also not in everyone's home tool kit.

Wanted to change our dishwasher to a stainless steel appearance. When the panel was delivered in 1 day I might add it was flawless. I removed the old panel and the new panel attached to the dishwasher perfectly with the screw holes exactly lining up. The most inexpensive way to turn a kitchen into a stainless steel appliance look.

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

Remove inside cover and eight screws. Unplug two electrical connections.

with dishwasher running I would open the door and notice the lower spray arm was not turning. I removed all parts in the tub and clean off all the accumulated gunk (likely combination of food and soap scum - like a white paste) . The accumulator screens where more than 50% clogged with no way to clean the inside. I replaced the accumulator part and the lower spray arm because 2 holes had gunk in them that would not come out. dishes are now getting clean and I am switching to liquid - no more powder as I suspect it caused the build up over time.

I followed the you tube video exactly. Very easy to do. I did not tighten the screws sequentially as shown in the video, rather I did the opposite ones to make sure nothing was skewed. Very easy, about 20 minutes.

Pretty easy job. You need torx tips for your screwdriver. An electric screwdriver got all 8 or 9 screws out of the door panel in about 60 seconds, separated inner door from outer door, pulled out handle assembly & disconnected wires, attached wires to new assembly, screwed it all back together. Be prepared... the handle will break again. It's just a bad design by Maytag. This Maytag model is so bad the company discontinued it. Beware of the control panel getting corroded from steam & failing. If replacing this panel, make sure you seal where the cable goes into the touchpad with some kind of waterproof glue, nail polish remover, or sealing tape so it doesn't happen again.

I unscrewed the inner door panel and the old latch assembly came out. I went to the circuit breaker and cut off power to the DW. Then I unplugged the old latch assembly and plugged the new one in. There were some springy metal pieces that had to be pushed back to get the old plug off and the new one on. After that it was just a matter of aligning the holes of the latch assembly with the holes for the screws and replacing all the screw holding the door panel, and tightening them up.

I was extreemly pleased with the replacement handle unit. The original unit had a plastic pivot points - the replacement part replaced these points with metal rods. The pivot points on the old unit were the points of failure.

The repair should have been done with a "star" head. Not having this, I was able to use a hex wrench instead.

The repair time was less than 10 minutes, most of that time removing and replacing the star head screws. If you have removed the old part, you have essentially completed the repair.

The biggest problem was identifying the proper handle unit. There are two very similar. Measure the distance between the mount holes in the unit and refer to the grid in the picture. The grid on your site was extreemly helpfull given the lack of part numbers printed on the Maytag OEM parts.

1) Turned off the power

2) I removed the screws on the plastic door.

3) The latch/handle assembly was right there.

4) I noticed that white and black wires fed each side. I noted which side did the black feed and the white feed.

5) I took a pair of pliers and held the white wire brackets and pulled the metal parts off. This is where the time took.

It took about 2 minutes per side.

6) I then slid the new metal parts in the white brackets.

7) I screwed it back.

8) Turned it back on!

9) Works great