MDB6702AWS41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)

Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)

Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.

Removed screws on inside of door and replaced door latch, put screws back in and everything has worked fine.

1 - Disconnect the electrical power
2 - Open the dishwasher door
3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel
4 - Separate the inside pane from the door
5 - Remove the latch assembly
6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly
7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly
8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door
9 - Replace the inside door panel
10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel
11 – Reconnect the electrical power

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Remove all interior door panel screws with a torx head screwdriver (drill). Pull the interior panel up from the door far enough to access the switch assembly. Pull it out and remove the 2 electrical connectors from the old switch (using a small screw driver as a pry bar if needed). Remove the old switch and handle (that may be broken off and still in the door). Push the electrical connectors onto the new switch assembly, making sure the handle is down toward the opening and the connectors are on the same side as they came off of the old switch. Align the mounting screw holes of the switch with the threaded holes on either side of the switch. Push the interior panel back together and align the two holes with the switch holes (those 2 screws go through the door panel and the switch assembly). Replace the remaining interior panel screws. Done!

Who ever assembled the parts for shipment, put the latch on backwards and it was extremely hard to take the latch off of the main part. Now matter how hard I tried, I was unable to re-attach the latch until I used a file on the plastic insert to file off the inside edges until they fit. It does work now, but it could have been made much easier if they had simply positioned the latch in the correct position in the first place.

Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.

If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.

Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear.
Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks

Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.

Took the dishwaher apart. Found out the float was damaged. Replaced the float and the float switch. Put back together

remove old seal, put in new - my 10 yr old could do it. Note - there is a white mark on the back of the seal indicating the middle so you can line it up when installing the new seal - makes it easier.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Received the entire latch/switch assembly rather than just the plastic latch handle. This was a pleasant surprise, especially for the price. The latch assembly was clearly a better designed and more robust assembly than the original.
Removed the inside panel of the door by removing the dozen or so TORX screws.
Pulled the inside panel away from the outside door panel (gently, cables attached) to gain access to the latch/switch assembly. A second set of hands was helpful for this and some following steps.
At that point the latch assembly was free mechanically from the door, but there were two wiring harnesses attached to the latch assembly via plug connectors to the two microswitches on the latch assembly. It looked like it was going to be easy to unplug the harness from the switches, but I could not do it. Never did figure out how to do it.
Removed the two microswitches (with harnesses attached) from the 'old' latch assembly by pulling back the plastic tab that holds each switch in place. At that point the rest of the latch assembly was completely free from the machine.
Removed the two microswitches from the 'new' latch assembly using the same method as above. This step requires care as the plastic parts and switches can be damaged.
Put in place the two 'old' microswitches with wiring harnesses attached on each side of the 'new' latch assembly. These snap in place. This requires care, as above, and the second set of hands to hold away the inside door panel.
Put the latch/switch assembly in place in the door, and put the inside door panel back in place.
Re-installed the TORX screws holding the inside door panel - and latch assembly - to the door.
I kept the 'new' microswitches because one day the 'old' switches may fail. If that happens and I want to replace the microswitches, I still don't know how I will remove the switches from the wiring harness. I guess I'll figure that out if the time comes.
Except for the difficulties disconnecting the microswitches from the harnesses, this was an easy and straightforward job. The latching of the door seems more positive, now, and the machine is working fine.