MDB6650AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

When the (overpriced) replacement silverware basket arrived (rapidly, within a few days of my ordering) I was shocked and angry that the handle for the basket was not included--nor were instructions included as to how to remove the old handle from the old basket in order to fasten it to the new basket. Therefore, I spent a considerable amount of time trying to pry the handle off the old one, which was quite tricky: There were four slots which held the plastic "catches", and they had to be pushed out simultaneously. I had to fiddle with it for at least a half hour, trying various implements, until I found that I could push them out simultaneously by wedging butter knives into the slots and then easing the handle off. (I was careful to position myself so that I wouldn't slip and stab myself with the blunt butter knife.) After that, the handle snapped fairly easily into the new basket's slots.
In the end, while I was glad to be able to recycle the old handle, I wish that the basket and shelves were made more durably so they wouldn't have to be replaced, or that they could be replaced at a more reasonable price.

Purchased a replacement lower rack WPL 99002572 (which had the wheels but not sure that it still does.) Used the old fold down shelf but this might be available as a part. The rack didn't have the tines near the rear of the rack on either side--my old one had fixed/welded tines so I didn't expect this and needed replacement parts to fix it. I Ordered 4 straight clips AP4112831 (99001436)CLIP, FOLD AWAY TINE to hold the tines. There weren't any recommended tines, so found and Ordered 2 each Front place and Rear Bowl tines WPL 12002218 x 2 and WPL 99002138 x 2 that looked about the right length. Used them in pairs. On one side of the rack (right side), only the bowl configuration works--this is because the tines catch on the edge of the basket and won't fold straight up. On the other side (left), I can switch between bowl or straight tines by folding them different ways. To make this work,clip the tines to the basket so the tines set a little closer to the center of the basket than you might expect, in order to allow the tines to 'float' enough to rotate to the opposite configuration. I had to experiment with the clip location so needed a needle nose pliers to gently unlatch the clips so that I didn't break them. I also ordered a clip AP4113042 (99001746)Latch, pivoting tines--but didn't use them with these bowl tines. They might be useful with a straight tine for latching the top to the outside of the basket.

I pulled the unit out its bay and saw that one spring was missing. I looked up the parts online and ordered replacement springs and linkages. Using the existing spring and linkage as models, I easily installed the new parts. I ordered spare parts in case the other linkage broke.

First I turned off the circuit / power to the dishwasher.
took out bottom rack
found correct torq bit [thats the kind of allen wrench] used with 1/4 exten. & ratchet wrench. Cracked loose all the screws then took them out.made a note this inner door panel fits inside outer door frame.Then lifted this out /away to access door latch which had electric wires to it.This whole assembly you pulled out from two outer pins that held it in place.Be careful and pull easy and evenly. Then I removed the latch and saw one side was broken. Installing new one you have to be easy and use some force, bend a touch to get both pins into holes. do one side then the other. Then partially tilt the whole assembly to get latch into door opening and push it down into where outer pins go into yokes to hold it in place.Then you must be careful when placing inner door panel back down into outer door.put all the screws in loose,then tighten. I was concerned about water leaking but had no trouble. It seems there is a seal across the bottom of that inner door and when you close door it butts up against another seal across opening on the bottom.Put bottom rack in, closed door, and turned on power. Gave it a rinse & hold and no leaks.

removed old and broken and replaced. The best part was, the turn around time from partselect. The fastest delivery of anything I ordered that part a 2 in the afternoon and had it the NEXT day, without specifiying any extra rush shipping. Right part too! Amazing job! Thanks

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

Changing the valve only took about 30 minutes but reusing the fitting from the old valve I could not get it to stop leaking on the copper side of the fitting. I ended up going out and getting a new fitting and cutting the copper line to make a new connection. Then the problem was solved.

watched the video instructions and followed them. ;Very easy.

Actually, I did two repairs:
1) Ordered SUB 12002218 (Front Bowl Tine with Sleeves), part #9. Received it in the mail and made the repair in about five minutes. Then the next day the handle broke, which is repair 2.
2)Unscrewed all screws around the stainless doors (10 screws), then gently pulled up on the stainless plate at the point of the door latch. Pulled the old latch out, placed the new one in, then replaced the stainless cover and screws and it works good as new. These two repairs saved hundreds of dollars in repair costs by repair people.

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

The time to hook up the spring was a minute or two. I simply attached the linkage to the door and then attached the spring to the linkage.The extra time in the repair was re-attaching the cover.