MDB9150AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Turned off water at valve, removed float switch, removed water inlet vlv. Replaced and reassembled. Still not water going into the machine. I have no voltage to the valve or float switch. I then took the door apart to find there were burnt wires as well as a burn mark on the control panel. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the door seal has failed and water got into the door. Had to replace dishwasher with a new one.

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

I followed the you tube video exactly. Very easy to do. I did not tighten the screws sequentially as shown in the video, rather I did the opposite ones to make sure nothing was skewed. Very easy, about 20 minutes.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

We had tried to use dish washer cleaners, and they would work for a time, but we started spending more money on cleaner than we wanted. I ordered and then I replaced the lower spray arm. It took a little effort to get the top screw off, due to hard water deposits. The new one went on very easily, just screwed right in like the old one. It's working great and I really don't mind not getting a new one or paying for a service call!!!

Simply had to replace the clips in the correct position. Would have been a five minute job if I had noticed which way around the old parts went before removing them from the dishwasher to find replacements. It's amazing hoe many permutations there were before it all fit together perfectly.

I opened the door and removed the torx screws that held in the inner door panel. I then popped the latch mechanism out of its two mounting tabs, and inserted the new latch handle. I popped the latch mechanism back into place and then reinstalled the door panel. Voila...

I figured it had to be either the motor or control panel so I gambled that it was the control since it had been draining but stopping midway through the cycle.
Removing the inner door panel was a piece of cake. When a small electronic part rolled out to meet me as I removed the panel, I was pretty sure that I'd found the problem. I simply disconnected the wiring, taking care to notice the arrangement and plugged in the new unit. Then I gently tightened the mounting screws, and replaced the door panel, being careful not to twist as I tightened it. The old girl fired right up!

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

I recieved a different part than was in the picture and description that I ordered, and was billed twice for it. I wasn't able to fix my dishwasher

received new basket without a basket handle; had to remove handle from old basket & attach it to new basket; took 2 separate tries to remove old handle & each try took about an hour; used screwdriver & pliers but had to be careful not to break handle; eventually used dimes to pry open & hold the attached sections of the handle open in order to free the handle from the old basket; we sure hope the new basket lasts a lot longer than the 2 years that the old basket lasted before it broke.

I discovered that, except for the central tower, all the spray holes were all plugged with I took to be calcium deposites . Using the parts diagram located on this web site, I removed parts. All parts can be removed either by hand, nutdriver or small wrench however you do need a star drive (simliar to an allen wrench) to remove the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter. The Lower Spray Arm unsnaps from the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter. I laboriously removed the deposits from each part down as far as the support filter. The upper spray arm can be removed by unsnapping the hub. the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter is a closed unit so. I purchased a new one. The process is very labor intensive. Next time I am going to consider purchasing all new parts or calling a repair man.

New pump housing filter was needed as the old one was plugged and distorted.

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