OEMM1-DU20J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

advisor showed a 30% chance that the part in question would solve my problem and it did. Had help from my 12 year old so it was a great teaching moment. She particularly liked when I forgot a part in final installation and she had to remind me to install before closing up the repair. 15 minutes total. Awesome fun!

I disconnected the dish washer and pulled it out. I laid it on its back, unplugged the electrical wires,removed the electrical magnet and pried the shaft seal out with a flat screwdriver. I gently packed the new seal into place with the flat screwdriver. I connected the electrical magnet and wires. I then installed the dish washer and ran it through a cycle. I am pleased to say the dish washer does not leak now.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

***BEFORE STARTING BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER!!
THE SPRING TENSION WAS GONE THAT WOULD KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING. KEEP IN MIND THERE IS A DOOR SPRING AND LINKAGE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DOOR. SO BUY 2 OF EACH AND RETURN THE ONES YOU DON'T USE. IF YOU REPLACE THE LINKAGE ON ONE SIDE YOU MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE OTHER ONE SINCE IT'S ONLY A SMALL PLASTIC PIECE.
FOR ME THE SPRING WAS GOOD - ONLY REPLACED THE LINKAGE. REMOVED THE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AND THE 2 SCREWS THAT HELD IT UNDER THE COUNTER TOP. I DIDN'T DISCONNECT THE WATER BUT WAS ABLE TO PULL THE UNIT OUT JUST ENOUGH (10 INCHES OR SO) TO GET TO THE SPRING. HELD IT IN PLACE WITH THE VISE GRIP SO IT DIDN'T FALL BEHIND THE UNIT. FYI - YOU MIGHT HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSIONER ON THE BOTTOM IF YOUR SPRING TOOK A WALK WHEN THE LINKAGE BROKE. BE CAREFUL PUSHING THE UNIT BACK UNDER THE COUNTER. TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND SAVED SOME MONEY

Assumed that the door gasket needed replacing so I went to Partselect.com. Ordereed the gasket and was about to check out when I noticed the comments from others. Decided to look and was glad I did! Almost everyone said that the gasket on the soap dipenser latch on their door gasket repair was bad also so I ordered the latch gasket too. Parts arrived in only two days. I was amazed.
I started by turning the power off at the panel box, then removing the door gasket and cleaning the gasket groove. Then it was a simple matter of pushing the gasket into place, avoiding stretching or compressing it. Removing the gasket and putting in the new one was only about 3 minutes work - however cleaning the groove took somewhat longer. Then unscrewed the 7 torex screws on the interior door plastic panel. Carefully work the panel free, study the solenoid to see how it pops out and it attached, remove the solenoid and the panel is free of the door.
Examine the interior workings of the soap dispenser to see how it all fits. The remove the two hex head screws with a nut driver and carefully remove the assembly. Notice how the latch gasket fits with its boot in the notch on the latch base. The old boot was completely torn from the gasket base on mine. I cleaned accumulation of soad and crud from the mechanism and from the interior side of the door panel. Put it all back together in reverse order. The cleaning took longer thna the actual repairs.
Thank goodness for the comments - saved me a ton of aggravation!!! Partselect.com rules!

I pulled the unit out its bay and saw that one spring was missing. I looked up the parts online and ordered replacement springs and linkages. Using the existing spring and linkage as models, I easily installed the new parts. I ordered spare parts in case the other linkage broke.

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

In front of the dishwasher, my wife and I noticed pooling water when the cycle was running. I was fearing the worst, that the tub was leaking from underneath, or that the supply system was leaking and I was going to have to take the whole sucker out. Not so.

I saw that the door gasket was very hard and corroded from our local hard water. I got to this site and saw that others replaced the dispenser door latch grommet, too, and four bucks was a reasonable add-on to make sure the whole thing was dry later.

The door gasket itself was about a five minute repair. No real tools required, except that a blunt pushing tool is helpful. The only trick was making sure that both sides were relatively equal on the bottom.

The dispenser door latch thingy was a bit more complicated. The driver set I was using fortunately had a Torx bit that fit the plastic door panel screws. I then tried dissembling the door solenoid/release mechanism, but I should have just undone the nuts and taken the whole thing off without taking the small pieces apart. Anyway, I replaced the grommet easily and then got all the small stuff put back together OK.

This was an easy repair without pictures or instructions.

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

I removed the inside panel. This exposed the rear of the control panel. I carefully replaced the defective switch. Only one was bad but of course i replaced both.

Used your web site was able to identify correct part very quickly. Received the replacement part in 2 days.
Removed broken part with screw gun only took 20 minutes. Was very please with ease of site and quick delivery.
Thank you

I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.
Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.
Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.