OEMM1-DU20J Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.

The dishwasher was running perfectly, but over time it leaked more and more. We were ready to throw it out, when I searched the internet and saw stories about a tiny gasket commonly failing. I couldn't believe that could be the trouble, but ordered the $3.75 part. Unscrewed the door, slipped out the old gasket and slipped on the new one. Screwed the door back. And the result? THE LEAK IS FIXED! Unbelievable. The old gasket had gotten stiff, probably exposure to soap, and it wasn't sealing properly. That $3.75 part saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars and will give us extra years of use from our dishwasher.

Removed the inside door panel. Removed the 2 mounting screws to release the latch retainer assembly. Used needle nose pliers to squeeze the posts to release the rinse aid actuator. THIS was the most difficult part since they are made of plastic (didn't want to break it). Removed the spring. Mine did not have a "pivot" to remove since it was a older model, but this would be removed next. Removed old gasket around soap door latch. Pulled tabs hugging the square wax motor actuator and remove. Removed the clear plastic slider. Pulled out the old door latch. Reversed process to put back together. Make sure the gasket around the door latch is pushed all the way down onto the slot of the latch. As a precaution, I also replaced the reservoir O-ring for the rinse aid tank which was quite worn as well. When it's all apart take the cap off the rinse aid reservoir and the reservoir container drops out super easy. That is where the O-ring is. Very glad they had the parts I needed!!

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

Pulled out the old gasket and pressed in the new one. No more leakage.

popped the two end caps off of the runners (the hardest part of the installation was figuring out how to pop them without braking them). Turns out just using a flat screw driver to start opening the cap lock did the trick. Once the end caps were off it was just a matter of rolling the old one off and the new one on and then putting the end caps back on.

The new basket wasn't an exact match, it's lighter weight and doesn't have the exact same configuration as far as the rows of tines. This will do us fine until it's time to replace the unit.

Remove the old rack and slip in the new one. Took 5 min to figure out how to remove the upper rack. Now have "new" dishwasher. Great service by PartSelect.

I removed the gasket from the packaging & soaked it in hot water for approx 5 minutes to enhance the pliability of the rubber. I them opened the dishwasher door and removed the existing gasket, making sure I observed any specifics of the gasket, (ie...shape of gasket). I then cleaned any debris from the gasket channel. I took the new gasket from the water and folded it in half to determine where the middle was, and I started inserting the gasket beginning at the middle area of the channel, (just under the door latching mechanism). I finished inserting both sides and then closed the door for approximately 30 minutes to complete the gasket seating process. No leaks!!!