OEMM1-DU20J-CAN Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the original gasket, wiped down the area, and installed the new gasket the same way the old one was installed. It was very easy.

Removed the inside door panel. Removed the 2 mounting screws to release the latch retainer assembly. Used needle nose pliers to squeeze the posts to release the rinse aid actuator. THIS was the most difficult part since they are made of plastic (didn't want to break it). Removed the spring. Mine did not have a "pivot" to remove since it was a older model, but this would be removed next. Removed old gasket around soap door latch. Pulled tabs hugging the square wax motor actuator and remove. Removed the clear plastic slider. Pulled out the old door latch. Reversed process to put back together. Make sure the gasket around the door latch is pushed all the way down onto the slot of the latch. As a precaution, I also replaced the reservoir O-ring for the rinse aid tank which was quite worn as well. When it's all apart take the cap off the rinse aid reservoir and the reservoir container drops out super easy. That is where the O-ring is. Very glad they had the parts I needed!!

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

Pulled out the old gasket and pressed in the new one. No more leakage.

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

With watching Video on line it was fairly simply, my son knew exactly what to do, it took him about 20 minutes from start to completion and when tested, dishwasher ran great. We have used it six times and have not had a problem. I would highly recommend this part if you are having the same problem. The video was very good.

I pulled the unit out its bay and saw that one spring was missing. I looked up the parts online and ordered replacement springs and linkages. Using the existing spring and linkage as models, I easily installed the new parts. I ordered spare parts in case the other linkage broke.

I determined that the problem was the door switch after disassembling the door and noting a broken electrica switch. After receiving the new part, I replaced the whole door switch assembly, and the dishwasher turns on and works fine.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

My husband removed the screws that hold the inside panel in place to expose the contral panel area. He disconnected the wire connections and removed the part to replace. One of the relay housings cracked and he had to glue it back together before he could reassemble the whole thing. I did not include drying time in the repair time estimate. After reassembly, the dishwasher worked like a charm.
Many thanks to PartSelect.com and my husband!

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.