CDB1500AWB Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Switch was not the same switch as what was in the unit, similar but switch was normally closed instead of open, so had to take the switch apart and change sides with the contacts! should be the same, but was not, so in the end worked fine after an adjustment!

1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.

Impeller bolts to plastic chopper mount which is screwed to the top of the motor. Threads on chopper mount were stripped causing impeller to not spin fast enough (replacement mount, which is part of the chopper kit, is metal). Installtion was not difficult.
You have to reach underneath the washer and wedge a screwdriver on top of the motor to hold the shaft from moving.

with dishwasher running I would open the door and notice the lower spray arm was not turning. I removed all parts in the tub and clean off all the accumulated gunk (likely combination of food and soap scum - like a white paste) . The accumulator screens where more than 50% clogged with no way to clean the inside. I replaced the accumulator part and the lower spray arm because 2 holes had gunk in them that would not come out. dishes are now getting clean and I am switching to liquid - no more powder as I suspect it caused the build up over time.

Snapped the old part out and snapped the new part in.
It was a piece of cake.

Took the baskets out of the packaging and put them in the dishwasher, took about 15 seconds to put both in. They fit perfect, quality factory parts. Thanks PartSelect!

First, I removed the screw, then I took off the old wash arm, then I replaced the wash arm, and replaced the screw. Nothing could be easier!

I followed the you tube video exactly. Very easy to do. I did not tighten the screws sequentially as shown in the video, rather I did the opposite ones to make sure nothing was skewed. Very easy, about 20 minutes.

Orderd the part's from your web site (recived my order in a timley fasion thanks) the parts just sliped on and clipped' basket rolls great. Mike Schaffer

I thought the door springs were broken so I ordered both springs and cables. After the parts arrived I removed the six screws that hold the dishwasher in place and slid the dishwasher out about five inches. Neither of the springs were broken but one of the cables was broken. I changed both cables, slid the dishwasher back in place and replaced the screws. The whole job took about 20 minutes. It was a very easy job.

My married daughter actually did the repair. I removed the plastic assemblies that held the upper cage and upper spray assembly. She unscrewed the screws that held the filter/impeller assembly in place and replaced the old one with the new one. I finished the job by cleaning the interior of the washer and putting everything back together. The dishes are sparkling clean again!

I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out.
Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws.
Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ.
In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.

I removed the washer from under cabinet.Turn unit on its side,removed hose connection,removed mounting screws,disconnect wire plug and removed drain pump.
I put a small amount of sealant on pump where it contacts the tub and reversed the process. Parts received in record time and in great shape.

I removed flowplate assembly, chopper assembly, found that the plastic spindle was stripped causing arm not to spin. In the new seal kit, the spindle was made of metal (much better design). I replaced the spindle, chopper, and filter assembly (old one was caked full of gunk). Worked like a charm. A previous post helped me figure out the problem.