KUDK30IVBS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

simple...a female did it!! Dealing with PartSelect was so easy...your was the only web site that made it super easy to find my part. Placed order and paid for it...part arrived the next day!! Sent web site link to hubby too. When we need parts again for any applicance in our home, we will check your site out first!!

1) Remove the racks

2) Unattach the feed tube the runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub along the back to the top (this is the grey plastic tube that the top rack sprayer plugs into). This is done by unclipping the tube in two places, one stainless clip is in the back of the tub and one stainless clip is on the top of the tub.

3) After the tube is loosened from the clips, give the tube a 45° twist clockwise (relative to the bottom of the tub) and then pull up. This should remove the entire feed tube and bottom sprayer assembly.

4) There are now 4 stainless steel torx screws visible on the bottom of the tube. Remove the screws using a torx driver. Remove the grey plastic "gear looking" piece that was held in by the screws by pulling straight up.

5) On the left hand side of the tub you will see one more (smaller) torx screw. Remove this screw and then with a pair of plyers, give the housing piece that was held on with the screw a tug straight upwards. There is a post sticking straight up that will help you do this.

6) The grinder assembly is now visible, and in my case, completely jammed with paper. Pull the grinder and screen out of the groove it is sitting in.

7) Place the new grinding and screen into the groove. The grinder blade will have to be pull back (toward you) so the grinder coupling teeth can properly engage with the motor coupling teeth. This may take some fiddling.

8) once the grinder is installed, reverse all the steps starting at step 5.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

I looked up the most common problem with this model and it was the chopper assembly. I removed everything down to this. Sure enough, mine was broken off and the screen was completely clogged with debris. It was not difficult to replace, but it did take me a few minutes to slide it in to place. Ladies, you can do this. No need to call a repairman! Look up the repair manual and see where the assembly is. I had no idea it was even there. My dishes are spotless now.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.

First, turn the power off as you need to access the door handle from inside the control panel. There are six phillips head screws that hold the control panel onto the door. These screws are accessible from inside the door. There are two at each top edge and one on each side of the door latch. Hold the control panel on the front side of the door when removing these screws to insure the control panel doesn't drop and damage the control wiring. Once the screws are removed, tilt the control panel away from the door to access the inside of the panel. The latch assembly that the door handle attaches to will come free with a little wiggling (no screws here). Once free, the door handle is pretty easy access. It snaps into place so removing the old one a installing the new one is a snap. Removing the two wires connected to the switch on the latch assembly made things a little easier.

Discovered through internet that it may be a bad chek-valve, Opened washer up and removed inside covers. Actually found that the chopper assembly was bent and non-functional. Ordered new assembly plus ordered a new check valve since the other was 8 years old. replaced both at the same time. Dushwasher works like new once again.

R Draper

If your chopper assembly has a catastrophic failure like mine did, chances are it took out the teeth on the circulation motor as well. This will lead to the teeth on the chopper being destroyed by the impeller as soon as you turn the dishwasher back on. First, follow the instructional video to remove the motor (found on this site on the circulation motor page) and chopper assembly (also found on this site on the chopper assembly page). The impeller is screwed onto the input shaft of the motor, and you must keep it from turning so that you can unscrew the impeller assembly. I removed the back cover of the motor (there are four screws holding it on) and held a flat pry bar on the rotating assembly inside the motor to keep it from turning, then unscrewed the impeller from the shaft. Mine came off very easy, but be careful not to let your pry bar slip or damage the motors internals. After that, install the washer and grommet from the impeller seal kit on to the impeller, and screw it back on while keeping the motor from turning with your pry bar. Lastly, reinstall the motor and chopper assembly per the aforementioned instructional videos. The whole thing took around an hour to do, and it is much cheaper than replacing the entire circulation motor.