KUDR24SEBL1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Removed the inner door panel and then the circuit board protective cover (which just snaps in). Fuse assembly is readily accessible and just snaps in. The wires are attached with spade lugs using existing wiring. No wiring modificatins needed,

1) Removed the two panels below the door.
2) Unscrewed the two screws holding the dishwasher to the upper cabinet facing.
3) Pulled dishwasher out 6-8 inches to gain access to springs located on the side.
4) Removed the broken spring.
5) Attached the new spring.
6) Openned and closed the door to make sure spring was tight enough.
7) Pushed dishwasher back in.
8) Rescrewed cabinet facing screws
9) Rescrewed floor panels.

Only problem was with ordering ... PartSelect part number is different than the FSP-Whirlpool part number. PartSelect should provide a cross-reference table if there is a difference between OEM number and PartSelect number.

Install too less that a minute. Fit perfectly.

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

My husband replaced the entire soap dispenser until in under 30 minutes. I stayed out of the room. :) I didn't hear any swearing, so I assume it went fairly well. Sorry that I can't give you detailed instructions. He didn't need a manual or any type of directions. I guess it was kind of obvious how to do it. Just be sure you turn off the power first.

compared it to old rack. Parts snapped together in 5 minutes. the fit was good. Kit did not include the silverware baskets, or the fold down narrow shelf.

I ordered the upper and lower rack replacements PLUS additional wheels and other attachments because I could not tell from the schematic on the website whether or not the smaller pieces came with the rack.

As it turned out, the racks came ready to install and all it took was a limber nephew to take out the old ones and put in the new. Now I have plenty of spare parts in my own inventory in case the wheels, etc. need replacing.

I feel guilty sending you this repair story because all I did was order the parts on your website and then conned my nephew into making the exchange.

The parts arrived very quickly and in good condition. In fact, the new racks are an improvement over the ones that came with the dishwasher originally. Ms. Susan McNutt was quite helpful in keeping me informed of the status of the part that was back-ordered. It was a pleasure dealing with PartSelect.com.

Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure.
No leaks.

Unscrew the top bracket on basket of upper spray arm assembly. Remove entire upper spray arm assembly. Remove old spray arm. Install new spray arm and new supply tube being careful to align the upper bracket with slot on new spray arm and supply tube.

removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access check valve ,white with hose attached.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Bent back metal ears over door hinge pins, released door springs from door hinges. Lifted door off of hinges and replaced corner drain back seals and lower door seal.Still leaks so obviously I have another issue or the door seal is lousy quality. I've completed this project before and never had another issue for 6 years.

The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.