KUDS01FLBL7 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged unit from power source.Removed the screws fastening the interior panel to the door. Removed latch assembly from the door after disconnecting two wires to the microswitch. Removed microswitch from the latch assembly, then installed same microswitch in new latch assembly. Re-connected wires and re-installed latch assembly. Re-installed interior panel with screws. Re-connected unit to power source. Tested unit. Has started reliably ever since.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

First, ordering parts and getting diagrams from parts select is so efficient and make tthe installation so manageable. Using installation tips off the site gives u confidence to do it.
My issue was that I could not get the dishwasher from under the counter.
I removed the kick plate and screws holding it to the counter, but it was not coming out all the way. So I had to use a coat hanger to hook the spring. I attached the nylon cord first. Then I pulled the spring taut with the hanger and it was easy to thread the cord around the pulley system. I actually attached it to the door before tensioning the spring to make it easier.
Door works great now.

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

removed old rack adjusters by prying remaining fasteners with a screwdriver, then installed new ones with steel screws. Very simple, and adjusters are better than new now.

Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

I followed the PartSelect video to replace the feed tube assembly with spinner and the spray arm seal for the middle wash arm. Washing performance was better, but a couple weeks later the dishes on the bottom rack suddenly stopped getting clean. I decided I probably needed a new chopper assembly, which is identified by PartSelect as the cause of problem for 48% of the cases of dishes not getting clean. Before ordering the chopper assembly, however, I followed the video about how to replace the chopper assembly to determine whether the chopper assembly seemed to be worn out (the video shown at https://www.partselect.com/PS11722146-Whirlpool-W10083957V-Chopper-Assembly.htm). It was worse than I anticipated. I found the holes of the chopper assembly screen blocked by food, and the spinner in front of the screen had broken apart. In addition to finding the pieces of the broken chopper assembly, I discovered a treasure chest of debris, including about 8 pieces of broken glassware, 3 twister ties, a half-inch button, a 3/4-inch screw, and dozens of small pieces of metal. I poured water into the area and used a kitchen baster to suck out the water with all the pieces of debris, finishing the clean-up with paper towels. I ordered a new chopper assembly to replace the broken one, and the part arrived in under 48 hours. I relied on the same video to install the new chopper assembly. The only tricky challenge was getting the new chopper assembly back into place. I first tried needle nose pliers in two sizes, as recommended in the video, but what worked much better for me was using two chop sticks that were each about 1/4 inch square from top to bottom. Needle nose pliers are slanted, but the chopsticks did not vary in thickness and separated the screen from the spinner an even distance apart, making it easier to get the gear shaft on the chopper assembly to align in a straight line with the gear shaft on the pump motor. I also rotated the two gear shafts so the gears of the chopper assembly would mesh correctly with the gears of the pump motor shaft. The video cannot show that step very well because the man's hand blocks vision of how exactly to fit the chopper assembly into place. The video also fails to warn about possible debris around the chopper assembly and to explain how to clean out the debris. After finishing installing the chopper assembly my 14-year-old dishwasher cleaned my dishes as well as a new dishwasher. I spent a total of $110.24 on parts and shipping and invested a couple of hours total. The alternative would have been to spend $800 on a new dishwasher or wash dishes by hand. I am very, very happy with the outcome.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

1) Remove the racks

2) Unattach the feed tube the runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub along the back to the top (this is the grey plastic tube that the top rack sprayer plugs into). This is done by unclipping the tube in two places, one stainless clip is in the back of the tub and one stainless clip is on the top of the tub.

3) After the tube is loosened from the clips, give the tube a 45° twist clockwise (relative to the bottom of the tub) and then pull up. This should remove the entire feed tube and bottom sprayer assembly.

4) There are now 4 stainless steel torx screws visible on the bottom of the tube. Remove the screws using a torx driver. Remove the grey plastic "gear looking" piece that was held in by the screws by pulling straight up.

5) On the left hand side of the tub you will see one more (smaller) torx screw. Remove this screw and then with a pair of plyers, give the housing piece that was held on with the screw a tug straight upwards. There is a post sticking straight up that will help you do this.

6) The grinder assembly is now visible, and in my case, completely jammed with paper. Pull the grinder and screen out of the groove it is sitting in.

7) Place the new grinding and screen into the groove. The grinder blade will have to be pull back (toward you) so the grinder coupling teeth can properly engage with the motor coupling teeth. This may take some fiddling.

8) once the grinder is installed, reverse all the steps starting at step 5.