KUDS24SEBS4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Water was not being sprayed thru the arms. I opened the dishwasher, removed/unscrewed the spray arms and wash impeller (black plastic wheel that directs the water) and then noticed that the part below the wash impeller had broken into pieces. There was only a metal ring and it was supposed to have a spring attached to it. I replaced the ring/spring below the wash impeller using the part from the Drain and Wash impeller kit. The dishwasher works great now.

It was my first mechanical fix. Use the web to diagnose, find the specs of the appliance and use common sense and you can do it yourself too.

By the way, the parts from this site arrived the next day.

We couldn't find the model # on the web site and took a chance ordering the rinse cap for other models of that brand. When it arrived within a few days,it was simply a matter of pushing the new rinse cap into position. The replacement was of higher quality than the original. Although the price seemed a little high, it enabled me to use a rinse again. We are very pleased.

Turned off the power, just to be safe.

Removed the lower panel (4 screws). That made it easier to remove the lower 2 screws on the door panel. Slid the panel down slightly, then pulled off.

Removed the old dispenser - disconnected 2 wires, removed 6 screws, pushed in the plastic clips.

Pushed the new unit into place - clips click in. replaced 6 screws and 2 wires. Put the panels back on. Power on.

About 25 minutes.

Replaced both "tracks" and the "wheels" .
Now it's like new....!!
My wife is so happy

Removed the track end caps from the tracks so I could pull out the tracks.
Removed the upper wash rack that holds dishes.
Only by removing this rack can the wheels be replaced, if I tried to replace them with the rack attached to the dishwasher I had to bend forward painfully.
Replace the old rales with new ones.
Attach new wheels to the upper rack in such a way as to allow the rack to roll inside the new rales.
Replace the end caps.
Hope it lasts another 10 years

First turned off the power at the breaker box. I removed the screws on the inside of the dishwasher, then took off the front touch pad control panel. Removed the old fuse, tested it, orderd a new one. Left the DW dismantled while I waited for the new part. Then put it all back together. I have also replaced the latch on this same DW, but they were both pretty easy.

Turned of water and unplugged the dishwasher.
Disconnected the incoming water line.
Drained on to the floor (have paper towels ready)
Disconnected the electrical feed wire.
Disconnected the rubber hose.
Unscrewed screw holding the fixture to the frame.
Took off the brass elbow from the old part.
Put pipedope around it and screwed into new part (carefully, so as to not crack plastic again).
Attached part back to frame.
Attached water lines.
Turned on water, plugged it in and ran dishwasher looking for leaks. No problem.

First of all, we were very impressed with the ease of finding the parts, the ordering, and the velocity in which the parts were shipped. We received them the next day. I had to remove one of the screws from the old kit, since the new one only came with one. I looked at the diagram on the website of the assembly, and also remembered what the assembly looked like before I took it apart. The first time I tried it, I could not get the spray arm to spin without hitting the dishwasher rack. Since I had ran out of time, I had to wait until the next day. Once I started, I realized that I had the mounting bracket on backwards. Once I turned it around, I tightened the screws, and it was done within 5 minutes.

AIR INLET GASKET Had to pull dishwaher out, using instructions sent with part, turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise, tap with screwdriver and hammer and it came right off. Put the new one on. It was kinda hard to get it to turn the last little bit, I had to use a screw driver and hammer to make it twist that last little bit.

As others have said, installing this part is more difficult than it looks. First, it is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle. It is not intuitive which part should be attached first. I also found that part that clips onto the the bottom of the "rail" was just too tight. After a little surgery with an razor blade, I got it to fit. Also, there are at least 3 different pivot clips for the upper rack. Pay attention to the diagram when ordering. (I didn't the first time, wrongly assuming that a pivot clip was a pivot clip.)

Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, others not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.

I unscrewed the old water inlet valve from the frame of the dishwasher so that I could manuever my hand around to the backside where the rubber hose was connected. That was the easy part. I then had trouble holding the old valve while trying to unscrew the hot water copper tubing so I screwed it back on the frame. My dishwasher is close to 18 years old and I think that was part of the problem. After soaking in WD40, I finally got the valve out. Then I had to remove the "L" shaped connector to put on the new valve. Everything went back together a lot faster and it's like I have a new dishwasher again. By the way, I am a 53 year old female so that may be why it took me so long.

Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

The dishrack fits perfectly in our 10 yr old KitchenAid dishwasher. Took a little while installing the wheels and 3 rows of tines that were not in place as instruction sheet was a bit vague. Our old rack had had several tines rust off, and recently learned that we should be using liquid detergent as the powder is like a sandblasting agent over time. Also we didn't get a knife/fork basket with the rack; however, old one fit okay.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.

Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.

I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resistance of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.

There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.

Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.

I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)

I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)

The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.

Aha!

I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.

Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.

This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..

If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.