KUDS01ILBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Just had to transfer all the kit parts from the old rack to the new one.
It was important to leave one side of the kit parts(the wheel and other plastic pieces) on the old one while transferring the other side of the kit parts to the new rack so that I had a visual reference for placement and orientation of the parts on the new rack.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

I removed the screws around iner door panel. this allowed me acess to the hex head screws holding the plastic
air inlet and replaced it. the small tabs on the ends of the old inlet had bent
up allowing the water to flow by

.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.

First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.

First, turn the power off as you need to access the door handle from inside the control panel. There are six phillips head screws that hold the control panel onto the door. These screws are accessible from inside the door. There are two at each top edge and one on each side of the door latch. Hold the control panel on the front side of the door when removing these screws to insure the control panel doesn't drop and damage the control wiring. Once the screws are removed, tilt the control panel away from the door to access the inside of the panel. The latch assembly that the door handle attaches to will come free with a little wiggling (no screws here). Once free, the door handle is pretty easy access. It snaps into place so removing the old one a installing the new one is a snap. Removing the two wires connected to the switch on the latch assembly made things a little easier.

If your chopper assembly has a catastrophic failure like mine did, chances are it took out the teeth on the circulation motor as well. This will lead to the teeth on the chopper being destroyed by the impeller as soon as you turn the dishwasher back on. First, follow the instructional video to remove the motor (found on this site on the circulation motor page) and chopper assembly (also found on this site on the chopper assembly page). The impeller is screwed onto the input shaft of the motor, and you must keep it from turning so that you can unscrew the impeller assembly. I removed the back cover of the motor (there are four screws holding it on) and held a flat pry bar on the rotating assembly inside the motor to keep it from turning, then unscrewed the impeller from the shaft. Mine came off very easy, but be careful not to let your pry bar slip or damage the motors internals. After that, install the washer and grommet from the impeller seal kit on to the impeller, and screw it back on while keeping the motor from turning with your pry bar. Lastly, reinstall the motor and chopper assembly per the aforementioned instructional videos. The whole thing took around an hour to do, and it is much cheaper than replacing the entire circulation motor.

I followed the YouTube video exactly and it went very well

I simply pulled the top rack out as far as it would go, reached in and gently bent supply arm down so I could get the snap button (male end) in from the top. The female end and the wash arm then just snapped up into the male end. It took less than a minute. I probably saved about $75 doing this myself.

Replaced the pump drain as one complete assembly. Couldn't do it from under the front panel as there is a small lug that you have to depress on the top of the assembly before you can twist the assembly counter-clockwise by hand. I tried but I couln't get the leverage. Had to take dishwasher out from under the unit and tip it on its side. The rest was very straightforward. If you can remove the dishwasher from under the unit easily I would suggest you don't even bother trying to change the pump drain while the dishwasher is in place. It's not worth the hassle.

You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.

First I shut off the breaker for the dishwasher. I had to remove the 6 screws that hold the top part of the dishwasher door to find the panel with the fuse. Then following the instructions that came with the new fuse I cut the wires from the old fuse to remove it. Next I installed the new fuse and attached the wires and then replaced the screws. Turned the breaker back on and everything worked great.

I replaced the electronic control board,