6651598999 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

replaced those parts... but lingering doubts about adequacy of water supply due to sediment primarily from old iron pipes, evidenced in faucet aerator. So I added a Rusco hot water sediment trap filter to the supply line leading to the dishwasher and faucet, along with a new flex supply line to the dishwasher. Water supply seems improved, and any potential sediment will be caught by the trap.The time, tools, and complexity of adding the hot water sediment filter are not covered in the above.

I put the bearing ring on the washer arm and then screwed on the retainer nut.
Easy to order the needed parts

Took the old one off put the new one on

The nut had broken off even with the top of the threaded area, so we had to remove that broken part. We did so by using small pliers and inserting them in the opening and held them in a spreaded position while turning the broken piece out. We replaced the three new parts and put it back together and it works fine. So easy and much cheaper that having a repairman come in. Took us less than 15 minutes.

This spinner is attached to a plastic module PN WP3379369 which is held in place by two screws to the top of the dishwasher. I was able to temporarily reattach the spinner by using a hot soldering iron to melt the nylon axle that goes through the spinner. By using a very small metal washer placed on top of the spinner I was able to melt enough off the end of the nylon axle so as to keep the spinner in place and still be able to rotate. By far the most difficult part of this repair is removing the two stops that prevent the upper washer rack being removed from the machine. Doing so requires using a pair of long nosed pliers and taking note of what needs to be squeezed. Even if installing a new part the upper rack needs to be removed in order to get access to this central part.

Once I figured it out it was not bad at all and most of all it worked, no leaks. I just cleaned some old glue off the stainless steel, dried it well, ran a bead of glue like directions showed, squeezed in the new gasket, closed the door for 24 hours then ran the dishwasher. No Problems.

I follow the video and it was easy thanks! you save me money and my old dishwasher Timmy S. GA

I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.
In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.
Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.

Following instructions I found on the web, I removed the bottom plates of the dishwasher and could see the broken spring hanging from its attachment point. After shutting the power off, I reached in, removed the broken spring and with a bit of muscle, attached the new spring and stretched it to a bracket that gave the door stability when openeed. Took about 20 minutes to finish up and the door works nicely. Saved a ton of money versus calling in a repair man at $90 for arriving and $30 each 15 minutes

I just had to unscrew the old nut and screw the new one and install the new wash arm bearing ring.

Screwed on a new one. The real story is getting the part. I called about noon one day and the part was dropped off at my house by FedEx the next day. Unbelievable. And the lady I talked to found the part number etc that I needed in a few minutes. Great service at a fair price.

required NO tools,

just unscrew the large thumb screw, and replace the washer arm bearing!

problem solved like that!

maybe a 5 min job. part was a perfect match.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.

Used nut driver to remove old spray arm assembly on top rack. Reinstalled the new assembly, clamped the holding assembly onto the rack, tightened the holding assembly--that's it.