66213043K112 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Sharon from ALTOONA, IA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10195175
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
it was the detergent dispencer, we had to install it twice. and it still does not work
like the instructions showed
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- Customer:
- Gene from BATON ROUGE, LA
- Parts Used:
- WP8268961
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher door drops quickly to wide open position when unlatched
Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.
Open dishwasher door.
Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.
Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.
Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.
Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.
Repeat for right side of door.
Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.
Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.
Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.
Open dishwasher door.
Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.
Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.
Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.
Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.
Repeat for right side of door.
Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.
Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.
Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Southbury, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP8268961
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door is designed to stay in place when opened. Door should hold partial or fully open.
Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.
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- Customer:
- Mitchell from THONOTOSASSA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10195175
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
soup dispenser was broken
went to utube
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- Customer:
- Lucille from MODESTO, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Washer would not turn on
Watched a video and read through written directions.
Did not need to pull out the dishwasher from the cabinet.
Did not need to pull out the dishwasher from the cabinet.
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- Customer:
- Abby from SACO, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Door would no longer latch
cut power to dishwasher. removed screws all around door panel to get front panel off, leaving top two screws for last. unplugged latch set, removed it. set new one in. screwed top 2 screws in. fit door panel back on. pulled out latch hook from stationary top piece and clicked new on in place.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from DREXEL HILL, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Top rack adjusters fell apart and would not slide back and forth.
I followed the Partselect video for the new installation. Very easy to follow which made new part installation extremely easy. Works perfect now!!!
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- Customer:
- Tom from VANCOUVER, WA
- Parts Used:
- W10300781
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
No lights not working.
Replaced control module and then replaced touch sensors.
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- Customer:
- Robert from STATEN ISLAND, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Door would not lock
Followed the u tube video. No problems. Will use them again.
Best recommendation I can give.
Best recommendation I can give.
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- Customer:
- Keith from ALBANY, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
door would not latch
We followed the video instructions, at times running to the computer to check the video.. The hardest part was getting the door to slide back on.. Thank heavens for the video.
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- Customer:
- ROBERT from WOODBURY, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
When the door was in the closed position there was no power to the unit. The control panel buttons would not put the dishwasher in any cycle. the panel lights did not work.her
I first verified that there was 120 volt line voltage getting to the unit. I removed the outer door panel by removing the 10 torx screws located around the panel on the tub side of the door. Two of the screws are longer so note there location for reassembly. The door handle can now be removed. Pull the outer door panel away from the inner panel and remove the connector to the control board. Set the outer door aside. Remove the connector to the door latch.The latch is snapped in position at the top side. Pry using a screw driver to release. Snap new latch in position. Snap on connector, Reassemble door by first reconnecting the control panel connector. install plastic door handle. Mate door to inner panel. Note interlock tabs between outer door and inner panel near the bottom area. Install the 10 screws. The two longer screws are at the top holding the latch and handle.
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- Customer:
- Michael from SANDY, UT
- Parts Used:
- W10619006
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Dishwaster would not reliably start. Just blue flashing light
Removing the door was straightforward. However, when the door panel was removed, I grabbed the door and my finger touched and pressed on something on the right side. This is an optical collector which focuses 3 lights (red, blue, green) into a visible slot. After I reinstalled the door, the lights were not visible. I had to disassemble the door a few times and bend this optical collector into the right position. Basically, I bent the collector into the door, so I needed to bend the collector away from the door. And now, everything is fine.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from ALTOONA, IA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10195175
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
it was the detergent dispencer
it was so easy to repair,any one can do it.
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- Customer:
- Catherine from Mountville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10195175
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Soap dispenser latch had fallen off
The repair was very easy - watched two videos on Youtube on how to replace the soap dispenser. The video convinced me I could do the repair myself so I ordered the replacement part. Before I started the repair, I realized none of my screw bits would fit the screws on the door of the dishwasher. Went to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Double Drive screwdriver with a set of screw bits that appeared to include at least one of them that would fit the screws. I needed a T15 bit. Once the door was apart, I unfortunately realized that none of my sockets would fit the screws that were holding the dispenser in place. Had to run back out to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Micro Driver and Nutsetter Set which as it turned out also included a T15 bit so I bought more tools than I needed. Turned out I needed a 3/16 for the screws on the dispenser. If I would have had the right tools, the job would have taken less than a half hour.
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- Customer:
- Henriecus from Edmonds, WA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10195175
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The soap placed in the soap dispenser was not released during a full cycle.
1) Symptom: The soap dispenser did not open up during a cycle, and a soapy mess was present after completion of the cycle.
2) Looked on the WEB site for spare Kitchenaid parts, and with the model and serial number inside the door found the diagram related to the soap dispenser (which was on the Inner Door Parts page).
3) Unscrewed the bottom portion of the door (3 philips screws on each side). You do not need to unscrew the top portion.
4) Noted that the soap dispenser lever is controlled by a solenoid relay.
5) Disconnected the power to the dishwasher (I did this on the power panel: I believe it is code that a separate circuit is used for a dishwasher).
6) Then I disconnected the connection to the soap dispenser (there is a little lever at the bottom to release the connection). Then used an ohmmeter to check for continuity of the coil. Since there was no continuity, it was pretty obvious that the solenoid was defective. It is an expensive part, so double checking is important.
7) I was not absolutely certain the the electronic control module was defective as well. This is also an expensive part. To verify this, I connected an AC voltmeter to the connector, re-connected power to the dishwasher and started to run a cycle (just close the door – you do not have to add the door front). I found that immediately after the water had taken it that approx. 95 volts AC was present. That suggested that voltage was being applied. However as I found out later, this conclusion was not correct. The true reason was that no load was present, and therefore the voltage reading could not be considered reliable. In this case, this step was not essential.
8) At this time I was convinced that I needed to replace the soap dispenser and that replacement of the electronic control module was likely not necessary.
9) Obtained a new soap dispenser assembly.
10) Disconnect the power to the dishwasher.
11) Removing the old soap assembly was not difficult using an appropriately sized socket.
12) Just put the new soap assembly back in its place was no problem. Note however how the flap is positioned: the slot on the top reaches the tab on the soap dispenser. Only one side has the hole for the top size screw and the other side just goes between the door backing and the soap dispenser.
13) Reconnect the wiring assembly to the connector of the soap dispenser.
14) Re-connect the power to the dishwasher.
15) Close the dishwasher door and leave the panel still off. Run a cycle and monitor that there are no leaks and everything runs normal. Every now and then I opened the door and noted the position of the release lever. In this way I found out that later in the cycle the soap is released. I could not find in the documentation when in the cycle it actually occurred. Anyway, I let the cycle conclude and at the end I found that the soap dispenser had opened up during the cycle.
16) Put the outside panel back on. Repair successful and the lady very happy!
17) I hope this is helpful to others.
2) Looked on the WEB site for spare Kitchenaid parts, and with the model and serial number inside the door found the diagram related to the soap dispenser (which was on the Inner Door Parts page).
3) Unscrewed the bottom portion of the door (3 philips screws on each side). You do not need to unscrew the top portion.
4) Noted that the soap dispenser lever is controlled by a solenoid relay.
5) Disconnected the power to the dishwasher (I did this on the power panel: I believe it is code that a separate circuit is used for a dishwasher).
6) Then I disconnected the connection to the soap dispenser (there is a little lever at the bottom to release the connection). Then used an ohmmeter to check for continuity of the coil. Since there was no continuity, it was pretty obvious that the solenoid was defective. It is an expensive part, so double checking is important.
7) I was not absolutely certain the the electronic control module was defective as well. This is also an expensive part. To verify this, I connected an AC voltmeter to the connector, re-connected power to the dishwasher and started to run a cycle (just close the door – you do not have to add the door front). I found that immediately after the water had taken it that approx. 95 volts AC was present. That suggested that voltage was being applied. However as I found out later, this conclusion was not correct. The true reason was that no load was present, and therefore the voltage reading could not be considered reliable. In this case, this step was not essential.
8) At this time I was convinced that I needed to replace the soap dispenser and that replacement of the electronic control module was likely not necessary.
9) Obtained a new soap dispenser assembly.
10) Disconnect the power to the dishwasher.
11) Removing the old soap assembly was not difficult using an appropriately sized socket.
12) Just put the new soap assembly back in its place was no problem. Note however how the flap is positioned: the slot on the top reaches the tab on the soap dispenser. Only one side has the hole for the top size screw and the other side just goes between the door backing and the soap dispenser.
13) Reconnect the wiring assembly to the connector of the soap dispenser.
14) Re-connect the power to the dishwasher.
15) Close the dishwasher door and leave the panel still off. Run a cycle and monitor that there are no leaks and everything runs normal. Every now and then I opened the door and noted the position of the release lever. In this way I found out that later in the cycle the soap is released. I could not find in the documentation when in the cycle it actually occurred. Anyway, I let the cycle conclude and at the end I found that the soap dispenser had opened up during the cycle.
16) Put the outside panel back on. Repair successful and the lady very happy!
17) I hope this is helpful to others.
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