66517152K216 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Took old ign. swicth of an put newen on.

Removed top rack from dishwasher by removing retaining clips on roller track and slide top rack out of tracks. Placed top rack on table upside down and popped water manifold out and snapped new one in place. Install rack in reverse order of removal.
Note: Make sure there is no food debris clogging spray arm, that will give same symptom as well as a weak or clogged pump.

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

Just click in, you can basically do it with your eyes closed

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

Watched a video and seen how easy it was to repair. Just disconnect the power, water and return drain. two bolts and replace element . The difficult part was removing and replacing the dishwasher...piece of cake.

After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.

Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

It is a bit difficult to align the grommet, hose, and mounting arm. Suggest using a little vasoline in bushing for the mounting arm/support. it really helps slide in the arm into that bushing so you can get the grommet and hose lined up.

Also, instead of using the supplied hose clamp, suggest using an automotive style hose clamp if you don't have the special tool for tightening the supplied clamp.

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.

When we ordered the part the first time, we pulled the model number from the documentation instead of the machine. We got the wrong part the first time. The people at Parts Select were very knowledgeable and helpful when we called. After we pulled the model number from the machine, they sent the perfect part that popped in with no problems.

My husband did this. He turned the dishwasher upside-down, disconnected the wires,and unbolted the heater.He put in the new heater (bolted,wired) and tested the current. Voila!

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.