66517159K211 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.

Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!

Watched a video and seen how easy it was to repair. Just disconnect the power, water and return drain. two bolts and replace element . The difficult part was removing and replacing the dishwasher...piece of cake.

Was a simple task to perform, a child could have done it. The technical skills diagnosing it was a bit hard though. The skills finding the culprit was indeed simple. Rubber was torn. Dishes would not come clean especially on the top & would not dry properly. The rubber piece being torn in half made it hard for the water & soap to despense to the top through thh center plastic tube, but now it cleans great. Thank's
Now to find out why it won't dry properly at the heating element is another task. It leaves water droplets on the dishes.
Once I got the rubber screw on attachment installed the dishes are clean & dry now & no water dropplets on the dishes.
The water dispenses up to the top like it suppost to throught the small tube to wash the upper rack dishes.
The wife is happy now she doesn't have to clean & dry them by hand.
Thank's so very much!!
Now on to the next project in hand to submit later on.

I removed the upper dishrack easily by removing the end clips and sliding the tray out. Removal of the revolving sprayer was easy as it just clipped on to the bottom of the rack. The rack was not the rack that was ordered and I was informed that this was the correct rack for the dishwasher even though the description and picture was different that what I received. There were no instructions with the rack to explain how to attach the "flaps" that can go over lightweight dishes to keep them from flipping. Every way I tried to attach the flaps did not work. When I was able to attach one it would pop off if I raised the flap to place a dish underneath it. I finally gave up on the flaps and reinserted the rack onto the rails and put the end clips back in place. The rack works fine other than it is not the one that was described and was not the rack that I wanted.

First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.

1. Open dishwasher door, to access the screws holding dishwasher to cabinet.... remove these screws.
2. May need to shut water off and unscrew water line and waste line (if they aren't long enough because you will need to pull dishwasher out.
3. Unplug electricity
4. Pull dishwasher all the way out... probably need to disconnect the water and waste lines
5. crescent wrench to unscrew the plastic screws in back
6. Disconnect two wires going to element
7. Replace element... reverse steps
8. Not too bad at all
9. Part Select is Awesome !!!!

Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

Our dishwasher's top rack would pull too far out which made it hard to stay in alignment. It had lost it's track stop. I easily ordered the part from PartSelect, and it came more quickly than I expected; I clicked it in place and it runs like new. It's wonderful to deal with a company that knows the frustration of not having your appliance in good working orfer.
Thank you.
Sue M
Masdsachusetts

I had to replace the whole sliding system on the top rack. Plus the clips holding it. It snapped. I watched the video and did the steps from Steve. The rack slides better than when brand new. Whirlpool wouldn’t pick up phone but part select did. So thank you for being there so I could fix the rack and be able to use the dishwasher again.

Husband watched your repair video. Everything went well and we are very pleased.

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

I manually attached the track stop to the right track in the disheasher.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.