66517159K211 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Something had been loaded in the dishwasher that had gone thru the basket - it hit the arm sprayer and broke it off.

Replacement sprayer was exactly the same - the partselect website has very specific identification method so you get the proper part. You must have your model number.

I watched a you tube video which was referred by part select. This was helpful.

I did not realize at first that only part of the arm sprayer had broken off. The arm sprayer broke off, but there is a base to the arm sprayer that was still attached to the dishwasher. So I could not, of course , fit the new arm with its base over the existing base because they are the same size. Once I realized this, it was a simple replacement, following the youtube instructions. You do have to press and turn counter clockwise to get the old base off, but once that was done, the new sprayer arm, which arrived attached to the base, easily fit, and press hard to turn it clockwise to reattach it..

It has worked perfectly. It is a hard turn to get the arm sprayer off or on, which is good so it doesn't come loose during washing, but when replacing it, you aren't sure of why it won't turn. It is a hard turn. Watch the you tube video.

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.

laid dishwasher on its side and unscrewed element. returned unit upright & replaced element. reversed process and reinstalled unit under cabinet

Took old ign. swicth of an put newen on.

Just click in, you can basically do it with your eyes closed

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

My husband did this. He turned the dishwasher upside-down, disconnected the wires,and unbolted the heater.He put in the new heater (bolted,wired) and tested the current. Voila!

After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

Disconnect power Pull out dishwasher. Turn it 45 degrees to your right. Turn it on its side. disconnect the connections to the heating element {2}. Remove bolts, remove element. Install new element and tighten bolts. Reconnect electrical connectors. puch it back in place. reconnectPower your done

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.