66513159K701 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.

I had a common issue on many dishwashers, the final drain cycle was not draining but the pump was trying to turn. Also, the drain pipe was clean. This issue caused a burning smell, like a circuit board heating up. Half plastic smell, half electrical. I bought a replacement pump, followed the pump replacement video instructions from PartsSelect, and it was replaced in under 15 minutes without any tools.

I followed another story for the same repair. Worked great.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

One Spring and both Balance Link Kits were broken. The repair itself was incredible easy, especially after watching the repair videos. Maybe 2 minutes per side. The moderately difficult part was removing the water supply and drain lines. Our dishwasher is some distance away from the kitchen sink. The supply and drain lines are routed behind and through some lower cabinets making reconnection a bear. Finally used a wire coat hanger as a guide and was able to re-thread the lines through the cabinets. The dishwasher could not be removed from its cabinet without first removing these lines.

Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Take out 6 screws from inside door upper most screws to control panel, removed water safety shield 3 easy tabs to release, found old fuse removed , cut wire 1 inch from old fuse removed have to pull fuse out of its plastic holder put in new fuse matched up wires, they are color coordinated, black with white stripe, and one solid black striped wires and twisted them tight, and inserted them in new wire harness that came from parts select tighten them tide them all together and used black electrical tape on all the new connections put back together and it totally fixed the problem so happy saved alot of money not having to call a service repairman

like the instructions showed

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.

This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.

[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]

There was no tools involved the part popped right into place. I received the part within two days from the date placed. It was great.

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

Followed the YouTube video linked with the part ordered and it was an absolute dream