66513883K800 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

really easy to repair... no power to control panel but had power from breaker box. Followed directions that came with part, self explanatory, took 10 mins.

shut off water take off feed line unhook wire plug in remove one 1/4 in nut and hose clamp and replace thats all then follow steps back wards

Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure.
No leaks.

Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

I spent more time reading the easy instructions several times than it took me to actually do the repair to replace the fuse. I wanted to make sure I fully understood the instructions before I undertook the task. I also checked out a video on You-tube which explained and showed me the same thing as the instructions did. By the time I picked up the screwdriver, I was practically "an expert". I just cut two wires and hooked up two new wires and... done. The instructions were simple....so was the repair. Nothing to it.

I opened the dishwasher door, removed the old tired seal in a manner of seconds. I measured the old seal against the new, same length, so no cutting. I started on one side pushing the seal in to the groove, made sure the seal was centered in the door. (not too long on one side or the other) It took less than 5 minutes to place the seal and check that it was all the way in, all around the door. I wiped the door down with some cleaner, where it contacts the seal. The door was harder to close, but I expected that until it breaks in. I ran a short load in the dishwasher with no leaks. :)

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

Followed directions from YouTube video.

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

The repair was straightforward. The hardest parts were pulling the dishwasher out from the counter and keeping the dishwasher from falling forward when I needed to reach inside. The instructions in the video were accurate. I was very glad I bought the rubber washers, because I could not reuse the washers from the original heating element. Easy enough repair to do on your own.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Ordered a new pump (after a online diagnosis). Followed the instruction video on the website...also took the time to replace the discharge hose due to residue buildup...tested dishwasher (one cycle). Slide dishwasher back into opening....DONE. Works perfectly. THANKS

I had a common issue on many dishwashers, the final drain cycle was not draining but the pump was trying to turn. Also, the drain pipe was clean. This issue caused a burning smell, like a circuit board heating up. Half plastic smell, half electrical. I bought a replacement pump, followed the pump replacement video instructions from PartsSelect, and it was replaced in under 15 minutes without any tools.