66513163K703 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

like the instructions showed

Take out 6 screws from inside door upper most screws to control panel, removed water safety shield 3 easy tabs to release, found old fuse removed , cut wire 1 inch from old fuse removed have to pull fuse out of its plastic holder put in new fuse matched up wires, they are color coordinated, black with white stripe, and one solid black striped wires and twisted them tight, and inserted them in new wire harness that came from parts select tighten them tide them all together and used black electrical tape on all the new connections put back together and it totally fixed the problem so happy saved alot of money not having to call a service repairman

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

Ordered p/n PS10057154, sold as a kit of TWO upper rack tine rows. I received one. Customer service issued a return tag and ordered a second kit, which again was supposed to be two rows. Replacement order arrived with just one. Fortunately, I had expected this and had not yet returned the first kit. Called customer service and told them not to expect the return of the first order.

This kit is sold as fitting several models of Whirlpool and KitchenAid dishwashers, which I verified that my KA was on the list. A minor installation problem occurred when I discovered that the upright tines of this kit don't have the exact same spacing as the KitchenAid originals. The upright tines need to be exactly half the distance between each of the crossbars on the rack below in order to install the three retaining clips found on each row. With the spacing of these tines, there wasn't quite enough room to install the clips. Fortunately, the retaining clips were manufactured with an excessive amount of shoulder on each one. Trimming off the excess material with a fine-toothed hacksaw blade made the clips narrow enough to be used without compromising their ability to hold the tine rows in place. I've used the machine several times now and the clips are holding everything in place as expected.

[img]https://i.ibb.co/9TQB3mC/clips.jpg[/img]

There was no tools involved the part popped right into place. I received the part within two days from the date placed. It was great.

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

Followed the YouTube video linked with the part ordered and it was an absolute dream

After doing some research on the Kitchen Aid issues. I turned off the breaker. Remove the (6) #15 Torx bit screws from the inside upper panel and removed the outside control panel. I located the Bi-Metal Fuse. I turned the breaker back on.Took a Electric Meter and it showed power only on one side. I order the part (BI-Metal Fuse) from the company. Turned the breaker off to there dishwasher. Very easy to install. I cut and trim the (2) wires. Match the black wire with the white stripe to the exact same color code and do the same for the all black wire. Install one wire at a time and tighten down with a small pocket screw driver. Then use the plastic tie straps to secure the (Bi-Metal Fuse).Turn the breaker back on. You are good to go.

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

0) assure main power was off
1) Opened up the panel assembly according to the instructions and the partselect video using the torx driver.
2) snipped the wires from the old part
3) patched in the new part by twisting the wire ends, inserting them into the assembly and tightening the screws.

Had my dishwasher up and running again within 15 minutes.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

I looked at the position of the remaining Tine Pivot, since there are four on this dishwasher upper rack, and positioned the replacement pivot and pressed it into place. It was a snap (excuse the pun!). NOTE: My dishwasher's Model Number was not in the list provided herein. I had to search a couple of models to find the Upper Rack that looked like ours and to find the Tine Pivot replacement part that looked like ours.That process took longer than the "repair".

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

Removed the 10 screws holding the inner panel to the outer panel of the door. Removed inner panel to access latch/switch, then removed 2 screws to remove latch/switch. Then disconnected the 2 wires to the switch, connected wires to the new latch/switch and installed. Replaced all screws and voila, a working dishwasher! An easy 20 minute job with the help of the video.