66513484K902 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.

You only need to pull it out about 6 to 8 inches and you don’t need to disconnect anything to slide it on

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.

First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!

Opened dishwasher door,removed 6 Torx screws, changed out panel, replaced screws. VERY SIMPLE

removed rack
removed one screw
removed old seal
installed new seal
installed screw

Got on line at PartSelect and provided the requested Model and Serial numbers. I also used YouTube to "armchair" diagnose the symptoms and reviewed several suggested fixes. Our "touch panel" containing all the control buttons had deteriorated over the years, and I speculated that this panel could be the problem. Since the dishwasher is a few years old and has had heavy use, I also assumed that the thermal sensor would be bad, or at least at the end of its life. Since one LED on the control panel still worked, I knew the unit had power going through it. So I removed the upper latching mechanism and touch panel screws and pulled the panel apart to inspect it for signs of burning, corrosion and possible deterioration. The electronics looked good so I cut the power at my main household electrical panel and proceeded to disassemble and unsnap the inside covers. Then I disconnected two electrical connectors and carefully unfastened the electronics ribbon. I snipped two wires leading to the thermal fuse, replaced them with a new sensor (spliced the two wire feeders with electric nuts) and put that back in place. Then I snapped the new touch control panel back together, replaced the protective cover, and the screws I had removed. I re-energized the house electric panel and-- WALA --the dishwasher sprung back to life! I'm probably slow and methodical, but it took me about 30 minutes to disassemble and reassemble the unit with the new parts. It's great to have the machine back in service, and the tab was only about $160.

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

replaced the valve

12 screws remove door outside panel unplug wire remove 6 mounting screw remove old unit put new unit in place put 6 small mounting screws back plug wire in put front door panel in place put 12 door screws in your done now you can start and test run

Removed the bottom plate/cover. Unscrew top from bracket. Lucky,had just enough room to pull washer out. Only 6 in. Sleeve had broken off. Needle nose plyers to unhook spring. Slide sleeve over hinge. Hard Part///. Pull spring back into place. with door shut. good luck.

First I identified the problem by checking the plug ends of the heater coil with an ohm meter. I quickly odered the part and when it arrived a few days later, I simply pulled off the electrical connectors, unscrewed the two bolts, removed the old/broken coil, put in the new coil and tightened down the nuts snuggly.
Nothing to it. I then had to reset the error code and it is working like new.

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Easily replaced motor and pump per video. Located high limit thermostat looking up from bottom and held on with two screw bracket. Reset code: push "Hi temp scour" then push "Air dry" then repeat push of "Hi temp scour" / "Air dry". Works like new - thanks.

Did the repair, but needed one extra step not described in video:

I followed the directions on the PartSelect Youtube video - very helpful! I do believe the heating element was the original culprit, as it had a "burn" area about the size of a dime that caused it to almost break into two parts. Obviously a point of failure.

BUT - after replacement, it still did not solve the problem of the dishes not drying.

After much web searching, I tried the diagnostic mode on the dishwasher, and that did a hard reset of the logic board and FIXED the problem.

So in all, it required both a new heating element AND a hard reset via diagnostic mode.