66515955791 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Plastic parts on this Kitchenaid dishwasher suffer repeat wear problems from heat and chemical detergents. The retainer nut on the bottom wash arm split horizontally int the thread area, and during operation, the wash arm would rise up and hit the bottom of the lower basket so there was a worn groove in the wing on top of the nut and the dishes weren't getting very clean. Simple replacement, just screw the nut down. Also decided to replace the bearing ring right under the wash arm because it was getting pasted with white crust-like material from hard water and chemical detergent residues. I've dealt with PartSelect twice now, and they are fast and efficient. The online parts breakdowns are easy to follow.

Installed the new upper spray arm mount. First I installed it backwards which made the blades not turn freely (rub against top rack basket). Turned it around and was good to go. I found it helpful to remove the top basket in order to do this. Note that this clip is gray while your dishwasher tines are white. This does not cause any harm.

Bottom wash arm bearing and seal were severely worn and leaking. Replaced in about one minute with new parts from PartSelect.com, and took the opportunity to clean out the arm -- stringy, fibrous matter was clogging two jets.

Top arm horizontal rubber supply tube was disintegrating and leaked. Replace with Spray Arm Kit -- this took maybe two minutes!

Lastly, two to of the upper right-rear folding rack tine clips were broken -- replacement was difficult as the old, broken clips were very stiff and came off only after much physical persuasion! New clips were installed easitly -- in a "snap". Time ~ 5 minutes.

Best of all, the new parts were delivered to my home within 36 hours of my internet order. I thought the prices were fair, too. Thanks.

unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

Removed upper basket and installed the arm. New snap in didn't require phillips screwdriver as old one and new support had split to insert. Replacing upper spray spinner dropped screw down around pump. This caused misery unassembling lower covers to receive Stainless
Steel, so magnet won't help ended up with mirror and hemistat to reach through large screen figures. So make sure to put towel or something in the bottom to catch parts.

actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

I removed the screws on the door cover and snapped in the new clip

for the arm I just removed one screw and replaced the arm

Removed the rest of the broken retainer plug. Part number was on the top of the plug. Went to Partselect.com looked up the part and ordered it. The right part (important) arrived in a few days. I put the arm back in place, screwed in the new retainer plug and we were back in business. Cost of part about $5.00. Price of not having to share in cleaning the dishes, priceless. Any future problems with any of my appliances, this is the first place I'll look for the needed part.

Removed one screw to get the spray arm off the rack, one other screw to disassembly the spray arm assembly. Replaced worn and damaged parts. Installation was reverse order of disassembly.

Replaced the middle spray arm kit and the upper spray arm mount. Also replaced worn out spring for the soap dish.
Now all areas of the dishwasher get cleaned and the soap dispenses correctly every time.

There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.

The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.

To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.

To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.

Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.

Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.