1949 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed four philips screws to remove the front door panel. Next I removed the screws holding in the detergent cup. Removed the two electrical wires from the cup release. Reveresed the process to install the new detergent cup.

removed retaining nut and replaced

it was very easy to unscrew the broken nozzle and screw back the new one. !

First of all, ordering the parts from PartsSelect.com was very easy to do, I found and paid for the part in about 10 minutes with only the model number.

Removed the screws holding the old flange. Pulled it out and put the new one in its place. Installed the screws.

After I was finished I looked at the instructions. I'm glad I didn't look at them prior to starting. They were actually confusing.

I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.

I removed the 4 lower Phillips head screws on the lower inside of the door.(thanks to a tip from Robert) This removed the front panel allowing access to the detergent cup. I removed the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. Removed the old detergent cup and gasket. Installed the new cup and gasket and reinstalled the front panel. Amazingly easy. Now it's on to my stove. I'm hooked on your website

I replaced a broken power cord in my 15+yr old portable maytag dishwasher as it was much less than a brand new one. I also need to change the seal in the door but that will be another day. Anyway, after removing the four screws inside the door with the torque screw driver (t20, I think) , remove the two screws attaching the counter top to the unit and took that off. You get to them from under the top when the door is open. Then remove two screws from the back of the unit. You can now remove the two screws holding the casing in the front of the unit. I think that is all you need to remove the casing and counter top. You now will need to remove a shield from the back of the unit. You will now need to remove four screws holding the front panel that hides the power cord box and other wires. The power cord runs into a small box that you will need to use the small socket to remove the cover. Disconnect the wire nuts and ground wire from the unit. This will release the power cord from the wires of the unit. Using a pair of pliers, pinch the black thing that holds the power cord in place and pull it through the hole it is slid into. You will need to use some force to do this. It took longer to do this than it did to get to that point for me. You must do this again on the side of the unit where the power cord goes through and runs to the back of the unit. Pull the old power cord out of the unit through the holes in the front and side where the black things were holding it tightly. You have removed the old power cord and are ready to install a new cord. Remember to run the power cord through the compartment in the back that it is to be pulled from when you operatate the unit. This is also where the hose comes out from. After running the cord through the back of the unit, through the side hole and into the hole in the front you have to re-install the black things that hold the cord tight. Be sure the cord is not touching the motor. I attached the cord to other wires underneath using duck tape keeping it away from the motor. This will require the pliers again and a little force to get the black thing to slip through the holes and keep the cord tight. It seemed easier for me to put the black thing in before I attached the power cord to the unit matching the colors up with the wires from the unit. This would be a good time to make sure the wires are connected by plugging in the cord and listening for the unit to start. I put the controls on the dry setting to hear the dryer start. After verifying the unit was connected properly, I used the screws that I took out to attach the box over the wires, attach the front panel, attach the rear shield, attach the casing, and counter top, or any other parts you may have taken off. The dishwasher is one!!!

based on instructions from previous customers, took off front control and door panel, removed old gasket, replaced new gasket by aligning tabs and pulling through with needle nose pliers, leaking stopped

Easy repair, I put small marks under the counter to make sure the dishwasher went back in the same spot for easy screwing back in

remove panel on front to acess float @ float switch.Remove phillips screw to float switch,remove palnut from float shaft with 5/16 nutdriver.Remove float from inside washer.Reinstall new parts reverse order.

Changed float switch to no avail! Ladeled out the water. Disassembled the entire pump unit inside down to the motor shaft and checked all pieces for trouble. Could find nothing wrong. Now trying to determine if the problem is in the timer or motor.

replaced gasket.Didn't fix leaking water problem.I believed that there was too much water in washer, when the problem occurred.Found that the float had soap build up in it making it too heavy,letting in more water than the washer can handle.Cleaned build up from float and problem seems to have disappeared.

Replaced the faucet adapter, works fine

I bought the portable dishwasher on Craigslist, and it didn't have the connector that goes on the kitchen faucet. Ordered it here, got it in a few days, and didn't need any tools - just had to screw it on. Good as gold!

I knew I needed a faucet adapter, but thought I could just go to my local home depot and get the part...not so much. After 3 trips and not getting the part I truly needed I ordered the part from partselect. I received it literally the day after I ordered it, screwed in place with no tools, attached the coupler/hoses to the faucet and washed dishes. I wish I would have ordered the part from partselect before even bother with home depot. I would have saved myself a lot of trouble! Extremely happy! Thank you!