1949 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I ordered two springs (PartSelect Number PS2202520), one for each side of my 30 year old Maytag WU704. This is the shorter "assist spring" that sits right behind the slightly longer green-ish spring, of which there are also one on each side. Now, with 2 springs on each side, the door swings like a new unit. I did NOT have to pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet at all. All I had to do was remove the base plate and there are gaps under the dishwasher frame that you can fish the spring with plastic grommet through, to insert the grommet into the appropriate hole on the door lever arm. Then with a pair of long needle-nose pliers I was able to reach from under the outside of the unit to grab the hanging spring hook and pull it down to insert it into the appropriate hole in the frame. I had a series, or line, of holes to choose from for this. I found that the hole closest to where the green-ish spring attaches made the door tighter and hold faster, the hole furthest made the door feel looser. You can do with one spring but I figure two would probably assist each other in lifting and last longer. Easy fix you can do! It would be an even easier fix if you need to replace the two other green-ish springs (PartSelect Number PS2097003), because they are right at the front of the unit. Open the bottom of the unit and check to see which is broken, so you are sure to order the correct spring(s) because they are different!

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.

had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.

Firstly, I'm a 58 year old female and this repair was relatively easy for me, thanks to all the marvelous instructions on this site from others who made this same repair. Like the others, I removed the four lower screws on the INSIDE of the door along either outer edge. Before that, in error, I removed the four screws along the very bottom of the door, big mistake, hard to get them back in correctly. Removed the door panel and took out the 6 nuts from the dispenser cup, slipped the electrical clip thingys from the posts by slightly wiggling them straigt off, remember which color goes where. Cleaned the area around the old gasket and reattached the new gasket and dispenser cup. This was a little tricky holding it in place from the inside while using the nut drive on the outside. Whew! That was the hardest part for me. Thanks to all for the previous detailed instructions. I now have really clean dishes! Yay! Great feeling of accomplishment.

Replaced whole assembly

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

Changed springs on both sides as long as I was at it. Did this without having to pull out built in washer. Lock the door closed to give the least tension on the springs. Remove kick plate at bottom of washer. Remove small access panels on each side. If you have small enough paws you can reach thru the access holes and strectch the spring with your fingers to remove and install new springs or use needle nose pliers if you have to. Don't forget the nylon bushings that come with the springs or the metal on metal contact will eventually nick the springs hook and make them break . Hook top end of spring first (rounded hook) and then stretch spring by grasping between thumb and index finger and hook into bottom hole. Hardest part is having to lay on your stomach to do it. Reassemble and count the money you've saved.

Removed the seal and replaced with new one. Job went very easy. Stop the leake. Thank you.

Claude Miller