66513949K015 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the dishwasher out and removed the plastic pulley on the bottom of the unit. Installed the new pulley. wrapped the string assy. around the pulley and attached it to the spring and reinstalled it to the back of the dishwasher. We discovered the front bracket on the dishwasher door was bent slightly causing the string to rub and probably is what caused the string to break. We bent the bracket back into shape and reinstalled the dishwasher in its cavity.

last time this piece broke, I called a tech and $150 to fix. I am not much of a do-it-yourselfer, but this was very easy. Removed to screws. I then pulled out dishawasher from cabinet. Removed plastic piece, replaced part, pushed dishwasher back and put in screws.

Easy, easy, easy. Appliances use to be built with metal parts that did not break as often.

I replaced the thermostat (part # PS11750035) along with the heating element (part # PS9494999) and the turbidity sensor (part # PS11757214). I also checked the filter (part # PS11759673) and it was very clean with no holes. The dishwasher still has water and soap suds standing in dishwasher after I ran it through different cycles. Also, when I run the sanitize cycle the sanitize light flashes red at the end. It doesn’t appear to completely filling with water. Also my hot water temperature is 130 degrees after running for 1 minute. I am at a loss! Any suggestions?

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

Shut off power to dishwasher.Pulled dishwasher half way out from cabinet, careful not to disconnect waterline, drain-line, and electrical connections. Replaced roller assemblies and connected new door balance links to springs as shown in the great video featured on your website. Thank you for the great pricing, speedy service, and the install instructions. I am happy!

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

We pulled the unit out and were able to easily see where it broke. We replaced it relatively easy, pushed dishwasher back in; however, somehow the pump seal got broken in the process so now we have to replace the pump. This was totally unrelated to this repair - only can assume it happened when we pushed the unit back into place.

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.

Received the part. No instructions came with it. Luckily it was pretty simple to figure out. i removed the appliance from under the counter, saw how the part was attached on the other side and simply replaced the other side that was broken. Easy.

Disconnect top screws
Pull dishwasher out halfway
Notice how the other side is connected
Thread cord, use pliers to pull spring to connect.

Shut off elec. and water. remove bottom plate and 2 screws holding the unit to the counter top.
disconect elec wires to unit and remove water line.
Pull unit out from counter and replace cable to spring the same way as the unbroken side.
Slide unit back and reverse hookup.
My only problem was that the part they sent me was about a 1/2" shorter the the original and the door is hard to open.

I first verified that there was 120 volt line voltage getting to the unit. I removed the outer door panel by removing the 10 torx screws located around the panel on the tub side of the door. Two of the screws are longer so note there location for reassembly. The door handle can now be removed. Pull the outer door panel away from the inner panel and remove the connector to the control board. Set the outer door aside. Remove the connector to the door latch.The latch is snapped in position at the top side. Pry using a screw driver to release. Snap new latch in position. Snap on connector, Reassemble door by first reconnecting the control panel connector. install plastic door handle. Mate door to inner panel. Note interlock tabs between outer door and inner panel near the bottom area. Install the 10 screws. The two longer screws are at the top holding the latch and handle.

Pretty easy for the parts. Taking the dishwasher out is the hard part. Typically, you should be able to unscrew the 2 screws holding the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop and then slide out the dishwasher to expose the cable assembly - but you also need to unplug the unit (unless it is hardwired), disconnect the hot water supply line from the angle stop (remember to turn off the angle stop) and sometimes disconnect the drain line from the vacuum breaker or garb disposal. You need to disconnect these things so that you can move the dishwasher out far enough to be able to see the entire right and left sides of the dishwasher. Once that hard part is done, you use a hex driver to remove the old cable pulleys, put on the new cable pulleys, and then feed the light weight cable through the pulleys - the end with the big plastic thingie attaches to the door and the other end attaches to the spring. Then you grab the spring and manhandle it onto the back end of the dishwasher chassis (look for the small hole in line with where the cable would line up. Careful as the spring attachment step could result in an injury - Hope this helps.

just move the machine out and replace the string. this site is very reliable and and great company. since the dishmachine door cannot be closed, we first order door strike, ,,,, still doesn't work after installation. and return all parts and order the balance kit, now works fine after. we appreciate your help

The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.