363GSD500P-49W Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Unplugged the machine then removed the two connectors to the motor. Loosenned the hose clamps, pulled the hoses took off the balancing bar,removed old motor assembly and put new one in. Reverse all the steps plugged the machine back on and was done in less then twenty minutes.

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

Most time spent was removing washer out from beneath the counter. Motor and pump installation was a breeze. Everything I needed was in the kit and easy to follow the instructions provided. Saved a lot of money and washer runs perfect. Thank you.

I disconnected the water line on the left-front. Disconnected the drain line at the air-break. I removed the AC power-in box on the right front and disconnected the power lines going to the unit. I took out the two screws holding the unit to the cabinet (above the door) and slid the unit out onto a drop cloth (protect the floor; some water spills). Pulled the unit out and turned over. Followed the directions with the motor & pump valve kit, which were very easy to follow. Then reversed the above. Nut drivers are a must for this job.

Hardest parts were finding the right size (13/16 in) crow foot wrench to disconnect water to the inlet solenoid valve to slide the dishwasher out. Regular wrenches won't work -- the space is too tight. Very few people have the tools I have. (No directions came with the parts package.) Second hardest was realizing the rubber transition piece connects directly to the rotation spray head inside. Threaded joint mates them up. It wouldn't unscrew, so I agonized over tearing it out piece by piece (the old rubber part I was replacing), but that's eventually what I did. Probably my fault, I could have looked at the expanded parts diagram view I had printed to find the part to order. Overall not that bad a deal, but a pro should have been able to do it in an hour or two.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, found where the leak was coming from, which took the most time. We ordered the new part on line, it came the next day and the installation of the new part took about 30 minutes and the dishwasher is like new now. This procedure saved us a lot of money.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.

Turn off the power at the breaker panel. Turn off the water supply that goes to the dishwasher. Remove the front lower panel to gain access to disconnect the water line and electric. Now remove the two screws that connect the dishwasher to the countertop. You should be free to slide the dishwasher from under the countertop far enough to remove the drain hose. Slide the dishwasher out all the way and lay on the floor door down. Loosen the two clamps that hold the motor up. Remove the motor bracket, (should only be one screw. Disconnect the wires from the motor. Now just pull the motor down and out. Repeat the process to install the new motor. I took several pictures before I started removing anything. The instruction that comes with the kit is very good. Their will be parts in the kit that will not be used. Not to worry!

Too easy- what made it easier was this is a portable roll-around unit I could lay on it's back. Loosen the two clamps around the washer pump, hook up the drain solenoid, washer motor wires, attach the motor hanger, that's basically it. It took longer to make sure I was working from the right set of instructions- this pump covers several models. Once I had that right, it was really a snap. Now the unit is so quiet. It once sounded like a jet engine in the kitchen, now it runs so quiet you can hear the water splashing around inside- a big improvement. We should be able to hang onto this thing for a while longer.

I googled "dishwasher will not drain" and replacemed drain solenoid. The repair was relatively easy.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Instead of purchasing a new dishwasher, I elected to replace the motor/pump assembly which the existing was noisy and leaking water. To start to took pictures of the existing assembly and marked the wiring connections. I read the instructions a few times until I fully understood and had the necessary parts identified. The only problem was the bracket that holds the solenoid has two holes for mounting the drain feedback bracket were not threaded. I was able to tap the holes (metric) and mount the bracket. Caution must taken not damage the solenoid coil.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.