66515997499 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.

Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.

Ordered both drain & wash impeller kit and the drain check valve with o-ring. Decided to test the cheaper drain check valve first. Pulled dishwasher out from wall & adjacent cabinetry; removed drain hose from disposer and drained as much water as possible; "jacked" side of dishwasher to gain access to drain hose and drain check valve; used pliers to remove hose clamp; placed flat pan underneath to catch remaining water drainage; unscrewed drain check valve; tested under bathroom faucet--determined faulty; replaced with the new one, restored connections, reset dishwasher in proper location; voila--fixed! Plan to return the unneeded impeller kit.

I removed the screw holding the spray arm to the bracket. I then put on the new bracket and tightened the screw. The bracket just clips on to the top basket of the washer. Easy as pie.

I noticed the upper bushing washer was worn thin. this caused the lower spray arm to rise too high and wobble during all the wash cycles. Also the rotation of the lower spray arm was wearing grooves in the lower bushing.

I removed the retaining nut and simply replaced teh defective parts. While I was at it I figured equal wear might be evident on the upper spray arm so I bought a complete rebuild kit to bring all rotational parts back to new and equal preformance that was achieved by removing the ss screw and removing the upper spray arm, bushing and clip then replacing them in the order of removal. Noticed a huge difference in the quality of the washed dishes!! Thanks Parts Select 100% to yoru company!!

I first removed the wash arm retainer nut then lifted the arm assembly out and replaced the spray arm bearing ring and then set the spray arm back in place and put the wash arm bearing ring in the hole and screwed the wash arm retainer nut back in place. I couldn't believe how much the 2 had worn down. It is working fine. Saved me about a $125.00 service call out here as I live 50 miles from the nearest big town. Not bad for a 68 year old female!!

Replaced lower door seal kit per directions without success. Upon further diagnosis, I noticed the rubber section of the water tube (a seperate part in older models) had melted or burned or tore a ragged strip lengthwise in it. I purchased and installed the manifold spray arm kit ps382824 and because it was inexpensive I also got the wash arm bearing ring ps402231. I replaced all of these parts. . A very simple process if done one piece at a time. This spray arm kit comes with an upper spray arm, a water supply tube, a screw, and two holding clips. After these components were replaced the water no longer leaks. In order of most to least important in my situation. The wash arm bearing had actually worn off the shoulder and looked more like a cylindrical bushing or I than a cross section l. This component and the water tube were the most important parts. The door seal isn't a water proof gasket type of part it's more of a plastic splash shield. Good luck. . It can be done. . And it's worth the money and tme. Overall this is a good unit.

The part arrived the next day after order was placed. That is an amazing service.
When it arrived I noticed that the new part was re-designed but the dimensions appeared to be identical. Initially it was difficult to snap it in to position but with help of a screw driver it finally snapped in place. After re-installation of the upper wash arm all looked perfect. But the arm would not spin freely. It would bind against the bottom of the upper tray. Finally after about 20 minutes I noticed that the mount was slightly slanted to one side. This was not immediately apparent unless you look carefully. Further I noticed that the bottom of the upper tray was protruding lower on the right side. Finally I realized why the mount was slanted to one side. I removed the mount and turned it 180 deg.. Bingo all fits and works perfectly. I could have avoided the problems if an orientation directions were included with the mount. I suspect that a less technical individual would likely not figure it out.

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

I had a broken latch on my dispenser, so had to replace the entire assembly. This is an easy repair, as the other posts have indicated. You do, however, really need a nutdriver. I undertook this project without a nutdriver and not only did it take ten times longer than it should've, but the dispenser leaked after my first attempt because I could not get the dispenser screwed in good and tight. All worked perfectly once I got the right tool, duh. The repair is done as other posters have indicated: unplug the machine, remove outer panel(s), remove six mounting screws, detach the wires attaching to the assembly, and reattach them to the new piece. **One thing not noted in other reports: there is a white plastic electrical connection on the lower right of the dispenser assembly. Mine had red wires attaching to it. To remove this from the old dispenser, you pull it straight out toward you, like a drawer from a dresser, and slot it into the new dispenser the same way. It would be quite easy to break this piece trying to get it out any other way, so use some caution.

The part came so fast without extra shipping. It took only 10 minutes to replace water tube and upper spray arm. I only had to remove one screw. Replaced with new parts and reinstalled screw. It was easier and cheaper than calling a repairman.

Replaced the bottom door seal. Found the job to be very easy. Just slide the bottom seal off, slide the new seal on, and it fixed the leaky problem.
The part was shipped immediately making the total experience worth while.

First I took out the upper rack, unscrewed the old remains and screwed in the new part. Next, I took out the upper rack, turned it over, removed the old hanger (no longer necessary with newly designed part), unscrewed the other part, and screwed on the new part. So easy! And one more thing-I ordered my part on a Fri. and it was on my porch by the following Tues. Now THAT'S service! - Pam

First remove front panel of dishwasher. Held on by 2 screws on bottom of panel. Remove the electrical connections from the dispenser. Remove the six screws on the dispenser and remove dispenser. Reverse steps to install new dispenser.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net