JDB3200AWS3 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Ordered a new pump (after a online diagnosis). Followed the instruction video on the website...also took the time to replace the discharge hose due to residue buildup...tested dishwasher (one cycle). Slide dishwasher back into opening....DONE. Works perfectly. THANKS

remover the nut inside of the dishwasher under the float took bottom plate off open the plastic housing installed new the new float switch plug in the wires snip in the new housing put the unit back in the hole put nut back on and put the bottom plate back on easy as pie

Something had been loaded in the dishwasher that had gone thru the basket - it hit the arm sprayer and broke it off.

Replacement sprayer was exactly the same - the partselect website has very specific identification method so you get the proper part. You must have your model number.

I watched a you tube video which was referred by part select. This was helpful.

I did not realize at first that only part of the arm sprayer had broken off. The arm sprayer broke off, but there is a base to the arm sprayer that was still attached to the dishwasher. So I could not, of course , fit the new arm with its base over the existing base because they are the same size. Once I realized this, it was a simple replacement, following the youtube instructions. You do have to press and turn counter clockwise to get the old base off, but once that was done, the new sprayer arm, which arrived attached to the base, easily fit, and press hard to turn it clockwise to reattach it..

It has worked perfectly. It is a hard turn to get the arm sprayer off or on, which is good so it doesn't come loose during washing, but when replacing it, you aren't sure of why it won't turn. It is a hard turn. Watch the you tube video.

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.

After doing some research on the Kitchen Aid issues. I turned off the breaker. Remove the (6) #15 Torx bit screws from the inside upper panel and removed the outside control panel. I located the Bi-Metal Fuse. I turned the breaker back on.Took a Electric Meter and it showed power only on one side. I order the part (BI-Metal Fuse) from the company. Turned the breaker off to there dishwasher. Very easy to install. I cut and trim the (2) wires. Match the black wire with the white stripe to the exact same color code and do the same for the all black wire. Install one wire at a time and tighten down with a small pocket screw driver. Then use the plastic tie straps to secure the (Bi-Metal Fuse).Turn the breaker back on. You are good to go.

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

Followed the repair video supplied by the site