DW760W Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

1) Remove the lower dish rack.
2) Use towel to soak up any water in the dishwasher.
3) Remove the bottom plate on the dishwasher front.
4) Remove clamp from around the discharge hose. Some water will drain out so have towel handy.
5) Dishwasher will need to be pulled out from its built-in area in order to feed the old discharge hose out and the new one in. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ENOUGH PLAY IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND THE INPUT WATER LINE TO THE DISHWASHER TO ALLOW IT TO BE PULLED OUT.
6) Loosen, all the way, the white plastic locking arm that clamps the pump housing. It clamps on a white corrugated plastic piece.
7) Remove the spindle arm inside the washer by unscrewing the "tower" piece.
8) Remove the screws from the pump housing on the inside of the washer.
9) Lift the pump housing carefully and remove the rubber gasket from around the housing. There is enough play to remove the gasket and put the new one on.
10) Clean the area around the housing so that the new gasket seats properly.
11) The new gasket will have to be installed before re-installing the discharge hose.
12) Re-install screws in pump housing.
13) Re-install the spindle arm.
14) Tighten the white plastic locking arm underneath the washer that locks down the pump housing.
15) The new discharge hose can now be reconnected between the sink drain and the dishwasher.
16) Dishwasher can now be put back into its place.
17) Before closing up the bottom plate of the dishwasher, it should be run and checked for leaks before finally closing up. My advice - let it stand overnight before checking for leaks. after running.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

Take the bottom skirts off of front. Put drain solinoid back in its bore and secure with wire or a rubber band.It will be a chrome cylinder hanging Take the center spray section out and look for the broken lever. Get both pieces out if it split and fell in two. Mine usually crack and stay on the shaft. Pull the circlip off and slide new lever in place and replace circlip. Re-assemble center section. If you are going to keep the dishwasher buy extra levers. I buy them 2 at a time and try to keep a spare.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

removed spray head, pulled motor/pump assembly. took apart impeller housing and then removed motor and pulled impeller off its shaft, the most difficult part was actually pulling off impeller from the splined shaft. I actually broke old impeller in the process. The good thing is that the new seal came assembled with new impeller so that was not a problem. After re-assembling everything it worked fine and still works for a week since repair.

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Removed Torx (T20) screws around perimiter of inside cover. Lifted cover and inverted it, then disconnected the two terminals from the wax motor. Wire and motor terminals had green corrosion and entire motor/latch assembly was caked with accumulated detergent. After ensuring circuit was not hot, cleaned wire terminals by soaking ends (one a a time) in white vinegar, then water, then a spritz of WD-40. Removed old assmebly and reservoir, then thoroughly cleaned inside cover and vacuumed inside of dishwasher door. Took digital pics at each step of disassembly as a reference when reassembling.

Instructions provided with conversion kit are useless. Attached parts, motor, and gasket to new assembly first, using old assembly as a guide. then attached to cover before replacing reservoir. Inserted plunger into reservoir and twisted to secure. Installed o-ring and mounted reservoir; slot on reservoir mates with tab on assembly, and white lever arm actuates plunger. Reattached wires to motor and replaced inside cover. Ran a wash cycle and confirmed cup lid opened.

Note that my model only had one wax motor, so new assembly was identical to old and the Y-cable was not needed. As another commenter pointed out, latch assembly will not appear to work correctly manipulated by hand until you remember that cup lid holds latch at midpoint of travel at start of wash.

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

Remove inner door by removing 7 torx screws. flip inner door up, propping it between the open door and the countertop.

Leave the drying solution reservour in place, remove two screws holding wax motor retainer. remove motor. (You might want to dissassemble door latch mechanism and replace latch seal, which is probably why wax motor failed to begin with. it simply slides over the latch FROM THE INSIDE.) Then reassemble.

I also cleaned up the main inner door seal. after that, the dishwasher leaked pretty good everytime the sprayer arm revolved. It took awhile to figure out I had rubbed off some rubber, although not much, BUT ENOUGH to make it leak.

SIMPLE FIX: Simply pull out seal, TURN IT OVER, so the back is now the front, AND RE-INSERT. No more leak. Saved 42 dollars.

Also: if your washer has two wax motors, (and you don't use drying agent) just swap the drying agent wax motor with defective soap dispenser motor. No cost repair.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

First I had to unhook the electric, water line and drain hose. Then slide out the dishwasher. Took several days to find the drain hose - local stores only carried a 6 ft hose and I needed a 7 ft. Once I found it online, purchased it and recieved it I put it all back together and all is good.

After removing the parts so I could get at the o-ring, I replaced the o-ring and restarted the dishwasher. Water was still getting past. Maybe has something to do with the difficulty of tightening around the short shoulder near the o-ring. To overcome the problem I applied a thin layer of Marine Goop under and over the o-ruing and reassembled the parts. Now no leaks.

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.