HDA1000Z12WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

I removed the broken stub of the old fill cap with a screw remover. This was the only part that wasn't easy. The new cap fit fine.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

We we're installing a used dishwasher,had to take it back out and replace the water inlet valve.

Immediately shut off water supply to the washer. After ordering and receipt ot part: Removed base panel, turned off power, disconnected wire, water supply line and screws attaching washer to kitchen counter. Pulled the washer out and turned it on its side with the valve on top. Removed and replaced the valve, returned the washer to the upright position, pushed it back under the counter, reconnected all services, screws to counter and base panel, turned on the water and power. Took two hours since I needed take a trip to the hardware store to replace a right angle water fitting .

Removed the existing inner door by removing screws along the edge of the inside door. Had trouble removing the door latch but after lifting it on one side of the plastic door fitting, it eventually lifted out. I also had some trouble getting the spring loaded soap door back into the replacement inner door. After playing with it for awhile I realized that the soap door should be in the open position when putting the spring latch back on. The soap door won't close until you get the entire inner door mounted and back on. I also want to note the the inside vent in the upper part of the inner door needs to be removed from the old inner door and installed in the new one. I missed that at first and it allowed condensation to get inside the door which caused the dishwashers alarm to go off during the dry cycle. One last note that I initially decided not to replace the existing sound proofing material in the new door based on advice from a website that stated that I wouldn't notice the sound difference. That was definitely untrue. I had to disassemble the door, replace the sound proofing and then it sounded fine. Overall it was a little difficult to figure out but considering how inexpensive the replacement door was compared with a having a service repairman come out, it was worth the trouble.

replace solenoid

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

I removed the plastic inner door liner, removed the timer assembly. Replaced both plastic parts, Detergent cup release arm and dispenser release timer lever. The most difficult part was reassembling the timer lever spring. Long nose pliers made it simple. Works like new.

Before you due anything else...remove the water inlet valve, remove the 4 screws holding the water inlet coupling to the valve housing, remove the nylon filter (tight fit), and clean the debris from the filter. Re insert the filter, reassemble the valve housing and check for leaks. Clears most water flow problems.

Had to install a new door latch. The installation itself is really quite simple involving removing (separating) the inner door panel to access the latch assembly. The latch is removed by simple push through one slot with a screw driver and the new unit basically pops in through grooved slots. However, I did find it quite helpful to first (and during) review a YouTube video illustrating the replacement. Although it is largely a simple procedure, for the first-time "installer" there are still a few tricky nuances to be aware of.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!