HDA965-02 Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

I googled "dishwasher will not drain" and replacemed drain solenoid. The repair was relatively easy.

2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Instead of purchasing a new dishwasher, I elected to replace the motor/pump assembly which the existing was noisy and leaking water. To start to took pictures of the existing assembly and marked the wiring connections. I read the instructions a few times until I fully understood and had the necessary parts identified. The only problem was the bracket that holds the solenoid has two holes for mounting the drain feedback bracket were not threaded. I was able to tap the holes (metric) and mount the bracket. Caution must taken not damage the solenoid coil.

Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.

Followed the directions. I've done this before. I used to fix these things for a living. The metal clip in front of the seal wouldn't come off. I ended up pulling the shaft out of the drain flapper in the pump which ruins the pump. A 14 year old DW isn't worth a pump. So I bought a new KitchenAid. The seal should come with a new metal clip since you may have to destroy it to replace the seal. If you are buying a seal, buy the clip.

took off old part, put on new part and that was not the problem.

The motor/pump Kit I purchased could fix/be installed in any GE dishwasher made since 1970. I would guess that the one I have is about 15-20 years old. I encountered only one small problem with the kit------ a motor hanger that had to be bent a bit to fit correctly. Other than that it was a total breeze. The clear instructions included in the kit helped quite a bit. In 30 minutes or so ,I was done and our machine was back in operation

On this model the panel under the door can be removed by unscrewing two hex screws on the upper panel and two phillips head screws on the lower vent panel. The drain solenoid is located on the left side of the pump and can be accessed easily without pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter. The solenoid is held in place with two phillips head screws, and the plastic actuator that is attached to the valve stem is simply press fitted on and held in place with a retaining ring. All necessary parts are included in the repair kit.

I took the dishwasher out from under the sink and looked at the pump and motor, saw that the cooling fan that this old style motor used was broke. Ordered this kit and installed it. I didn't even look at the directions that simple of a swap. Thank God!

Dishwasher is 22 years old and I'm 80 years old so it took longer, about 3 hours. After removing, turned upside down and removed old pump-motor assembly and replaced with new following directions [which took a little while to figure out; my assembly was quite a bit different from the replacement pump-motor]. Pleasantly surprised at how quiet the dishwasher now runs. Normally I would replace this old an appliance, but this unit has provision for inserting a wood panel that blends with the cabinets and a new GE dishwasher with this feature costs $1300 MSRP. I'm trying to save money for when I get old so I decided to do the repair myself. For $150 it was a worthwhile investment.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Followed the enclosed directions and the video helped a lot. My model needed a different motor mount bar than in the video but wasn't hard to figure out. From shutoff of the water, unplugging, and undoing the screws under the counter and pulling the old pump/motor and installing the new pump/motor and putting it all back took a leisurely 90 minutes. Be sure to hang onto the old plastic covers for the electric leads to reuse.

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.